Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 1994/5
Page Views: 1,685 total · 11/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Starts just right of Exodus. Fun, well-protected sandstone slabbing.

Protection

5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
This is a fun climb, but moving past the 4th bolt can be a bit confusing as you can choose two different and equally (I think) challenging routes. Going direct via a crimp and high-step seems logical, but a series of fun lie-back moves a couple of feet to the left offer a interesting way to surmount the crux. You choose. Just be sure not to go TOO far to the left. It's tempting... Nov 20, 2007
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10d
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10d
This route is awesome! Very interesting movement on quality sandstone. The bolts very thoughtfully protect the harder moves. 3-1/2 stars!!

As Andy mentions, the clear crux encounter arrives at the 4th bolt. Stay right of the 4th bolt for a single, strenuous, reachy move off of a left-hand, 2-pad crimp (5.10d). Climb larger features left of the 4th bolt for an easier variation (5.10c).

The anchor at the top of this route gets my vote as the single worst in the Gorge. It is comprised of two 1/2" wedge bolts in loose, cracked blocks. Both bolts wiggle playfully in their holes. The old-school open shuts are the least sketchy part of the anchor. UPDATE: the route now sports a beefier anchor with Mussy Hooks. Jul 8, 2008
NLi10Me  
The anchor on this route is now top of the line. Two bolts with chains to a single mussy hook backed up by a third bolt with chains to a second mussy hook.

I agree with Matthew's view of the rating, 5.11a is a bit inflated. At the 4th bolt crux, using the left hand lay back it felt about 10c, going right of this bolt using the high step right foot smear to the very high right hand slope/chicken head felt like 10d. (Though it could easily have been labeled 10b if it were in Joshua Tree!) Aug 12, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
The route description indicates 5 bolts, but Matthew's topo (Aug. 19, 2006) shows 6 bolts. Aug 10, 2014
3 or 4 bolt is a spinner Nov 20, 2017