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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 1994/5
Page Views: 1,522 total, 11/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starts just right of Exodus. Fun, well-protected sandstone slabbing.

Protection

5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

3 or 4 bolt is a spinner Nov 20, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
The route description indicates 5 bolts, but Matthew's topo (Aug. 19, 2006) shows 6 bolts. Aug 10, 2014
NLi10Me  
The anchor on this route is now top of the line. Two bolts with chains to a single mussy hook backed up by a third bolt with chains to a second mussy hook.

I agree with Matthew's view of the rating, 5.11a is a bit inflated. At the 4th bolt crux, using the left hand lay back it felt about 10c, going right of this bolt using the high step right foot smear to the very high right hand slope/chicken head felt like 10d. (Though it could easily have been labeled 10b if it were in Joshua Tree!) Aug 12, 2012
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10d
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10d
This route is awesome! Very interesting movement on quality sandstone. The bolts very thoughtfully protect the harder moves. 3-1/2 stars!!

As Andy mentions, the clear crux encounter arrives at the 4th bolt. Stay right of the 4th bolt for a single, strenuous, reachy move off of a left-hand, 2-pad crimp (5.10d). Climb larger features left of the 4th bolt for an easier variation (5.10c).

The anchor at the top of this route gets my vote as the single worst in the Gorge. It is comprised of two 1/2" wedge bolts in loose, cracked blocks. Both bolts wiggle playfully in their holes. The old-school open shuts are the least sketchy part of the anchor. UPDATE: the route now sports a beefier anchor with Mussy Hooks. Jul 8, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
This is a fun climb, but moving past the 4th bolt can be a bit confusing as you can choose two different and equally (I think) challenging routes. Going direct via a crimp and high-step seems logical, but a series of fun lie-back moves a couple of feet to the left offer a interesting way to surmount the crux. You choose. Just be sure not to go TOO far to the left. It's tempting... Nov 20, 2007