Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Mike Levanduski & Eric Benaventes (2014)
Page Views: 1,628 total, 36/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 19, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


31 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climbs past an overhang and then climbs low-angle rock to the top. The overhang proves to be easier than it looks, while the slabby stuff above proves to be harder than it looks--altogether an interesting route.

Location

Starts 8 feet left of Cobble Climb

Protection

5 Bolts to 2-bolt anchor with chains.
The first 3 lead bolts are 3/8" Rawls. The next 2 are 1/2" Rawls.
Brent Blevins
Chattanooga,Tennessee
  5.9-
Brent Blevins   Chattanooga,Tennessee
  5.9-
You get the hard stuff out of the way after a short roof pull at the first bolt. Having never climbed on cobble before it had my attention. Casual but thought provoking. Oct 17, 2017
michael w. levanduski   ventura
 
Guy Keesee, makes rock climbing look easy!!!!!! What can i say, i am honored that you would climb our little route. Hope to see you soon at the point. Jul 3, 2016
Michaeldifronzo
Newbury Park, CA
  5.10a
Michaeldifronzo   Newbury Park, CA
  5.10a
classic Apr 30, 2016
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
  5.9+
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
  5.9+
Bolted sort of weird, the location of the bolts, but its Mikes first try at this stuff. I thought it was 10-, harder then Ezra. The friction at the top had my attention. Jan 21, 2015
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.9
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.9
The bolt in the protruding cobble has been moved and replaced with a beefy 1/2"x4" Rawl five piece. Thanks guys. Sep 5, 2014
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.9
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.9
This route is called 'Stolen From Mike' and was done ground up with aid.
FA: Mike Levanduski
FFA: Erick Benaventes (sp?)

Sounds like Erick tried to bolt it on aid but bailed, with Mike coming in later to finish bolting it and finally Erick leading it free. It was reportedly Erick's first go at bolting, hence the bolted cobble and confusing mix of hardware. Aug 22, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
3/8" bolts down low; 1/2" bolts up high; seems to defy logic in terms fall forces... Apr 10, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing on this route. The crux move arrives at the first bolt. Rock over onto a high right foot to pull past the roof. The next three bolts are interesting 5.8 climbing. Then things ease up.

Still has a lot of lichen, but it did not detract too much. Mar 20, 2014