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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Gould, Agulara, Brannon, 1995
Page Views: 2,846 total, 20/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 22, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sustained and interesting climbing on excellent rock. One 5.11a move yields to sustained 5.9+ climbing. Much of the climbing involves long reaches (and may be somewhat height-dependent).

Catch your breath on the large ledge at midpoint before tackling the pumpy and exposed headwall above (5.9+).

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.

The opening moves are awkward and unprotected. Many climbers will benefit from a stick-clip. The crux itself is very well protected. Clipping the 6th bolt is a little spooky. Be careful.
Brent Blevins
Chattanooga,Tennessee
  5.10d
Brent Blevins   Chattanooga,Tennessee
  5.10d
A few bouldery moves at the base of the climb gives way to jugs and a great finger crack before the anchors. I liked this one a lot. Definitely my favorite climb the day we were there. Oct 17, 2017
I just read the above comments and it all makes a lot more sense now. At 5'2," I found the crux to be a lot harder than lla, but I guess it's because a key hold broke off. This is still a great route though. Dec 8, 2015
To me, this crux (single move) felt harder than Silent Mind. Apr 15, 2014
Alex DeGolia  
 
Did this on TR after a sketchy traverse over from the top of Stuart's Rig (not recommended - go up the crack right of the roof if you want to end at this anchor). Don't know what it was like prior to a broken hold, but felt like more than one 5.11 move in the bottom 1/3 of the route. After that, all beautiful sloping jugs into a great finger crack. Mar 10, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
I also noticed what Joe mentioned. The decisive hold has broken off at the crux. The route now feels 11b/11c to me. Still just a one-move wonder though. Sep 5, 2011
Joe Dondero
Sunnyvale, CA
 
Joe Dondero   Sunnyvale, CA
 
Was on this route yesterday and noticed that a hold had been pulled off at the crux. It's the left hand pinch used to get to the ledge at the second bolt. It seems like there is still a good hold there despite the hold being removed. Apr 11, 2010
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
The anchor atop Danger Boy consists of two solid 1/2" x 5" Rawl-syle expansion bolts with open shuts backed up by an additional expansion bolt equipped with a chain.

The two lower bolts now sport new Fixe Supershuts. Sep 5, 2007
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
The cold shut anchors for this line are in need of replacement. I was there over christmas and both bolts wobbled in there respective holes. The old SMC hanger above looks alright. Dec 30, 2006
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
An excellent variation for the non-5.11 leader: climb the first 5 bolts of Stu Boy (extending the fifth bolt) and finish up the crack towards Danger Boy's anchor (either placing a small piece of gear or extending the 7th bolt of Danger Boy). Only 5.9 and good for setting a TR. Feb 22, 2006