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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Erik Benevente, Mike Levanduski (Sept. 2014)
Page Views: 1,375 total · 34/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Clip two bolts then pull some steep moves to turn the roof. Follow the slab above past two more bolts.
Then climb the wall above to a two bolt anchor.

Location

Currently the left-most line on the main cobble wall.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

michael w. levanduski
ventura
  5.11a/b
michael w. levanduski   ventura
  5.11a/b
Michael, nice to know people are trying the route. Eric and i had a really great time bolting up those lines. your review is right on, the run outs are fun and the route could use alittle more cleaning on top. thank you Jul 3, 2016
Somedude  
 
Thanks for giving it a go and the top could for sure use a smiggin of cleaning, but for the most part that would come with traffic and difference in beta. Wish more people would just look past a silly name and try a fun climb. May 12, 2016
Michaeldifronzo
Newbury Park, CA
  5.11-
Michaeldifronzo   Newbury Park, CA
  5.11-
climbed it on thursday 4/28/16 pulling the roof was the crux for me. the run outs after the 3rd bolt were fun as well ;) the last 2 bolts before the anchor prove to be tough when pumped. needs to be cleaned for sure tho. Apr 30, 2016
Somedude  
 
So how many people actually climbed it........... Aug 15, 2015
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Honest question to Michael: how does the line climb? Good? Awesome? I'll be going out there next week, and was hoping to check out the new routes. All ribbing aside, thanks for bolting. Always appreciated. Sep 17, 2014
"I think no matter how we climbed the line or what we called it people would still complain."

That speaks volumes. Sep 17, 2014
michael w. levanduski
ventura
  5.11a/b
michael w. levanduski   ventura
  5.11a/b
I think no matter how we climbed the line or what we called it people would still complain. Maybe it should be logged in as B. free zone so as not to offend. Thanks for all your input Sep 16, 2014
Climbing is filled with unsavory/offensive/dumb names. In all the ninnying about the name, something of actual relevance has been glossed over (emphasis mine, as per usual):

"The route was cleaned and worked on top rope and then bolted on lead."

Huh?

"new route is open but needs a lot more cleaning.Eric free climbed on lead right after we spent 4 or 5 hours bolting up the head wall."

Again, huh?

If you're going to drop a rope down and clean/work the route, clean the f-ing route and bolt it properly.

Here's what needs to happen: Someone drop a rope down this route, clean the shit out of it, pull the old bolts, place new bolts where they should be, re-lead it like the sport route that it is, then re-name it "The Circus is in Town", cause there's some Bozo shit going down in Wheeler Gorge lately and this would fit right in. Sep 16, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
True, Richard, true.

All of us (especially me, since I run the family blacksmithing business and am expecting a kid ANY day now) probably have better things to do than troll the internet and criticize people. But man, it is tempting sometimes... Sep 16, 2014
Here's an idea:

Let the route fall into obscurity; allow the moss and lichen to grow back on the rock. Somebody re-climb it 10 years from now and re-claim the FA and rename it whatever they want. Seems to be common practice nowadays amongst the bouldering contingent in the area. I'm thinking we can rename the whole area while we're at it - something along the lines of "Black Canyon of the Gunnison" if it isn't already taken.

Or, maybe we can respect the name given by the FAists, take the whining elsewhere, and keep this little page on the internet a "bitch free zone." Sep 16, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Disappointing name, but hey, perhaps they read the Bill of Rights recently and got psyched. In any case, I'm happy that new routes get put up. Sep 16, 2014
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
It's a bummer that someone would name a climb like this in a nice area where people come to learn how to climb. Can't think of anything better huh? Sep 16, 2014
michael w. levanduski
ventura
  5.11a/b
michael w. levanduski   ventura
  5.11a/b
new route is open but needs a lot more cleaning.Eric free climbed on lead right after we spent 4 or 5 hours bolting up the head wall.I think people will call the line 5 11.Crux is turning the roof, and getting on the head wall is tricky as well. Sep 14, 2014