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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian Spiering (2008)
Page Views: 1,099 total, 9/month
Shared By: Brian S on May 28, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The route starts between Blush and the road. Hard start, stick clip recommended, yields to easier and easier climbing.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors. Bring quickdraws for the anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Originally a Mike Gould & Tony Agulara project listed as 5.12b/c. Jan 24, 2009
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
btw, I'm wondering how bad rock must be to shock someone living on the Central Coast.

Hey, if you guys are psyched to bolt choss, hit me up. There's a fair amount of stuff that I never got to. One good--harder--line would be the short schist line just north of the bridge. Bouldery, with lots of side-pulls and underclings. Also, the second tier right of the tunnel would yield a few good lines, but you'd have to bolt the slab underneath and add anchors across the ledge.

Let me know when you're finished and I'll plan a trip out.

Have fun! Jul 30, 2008
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Right on. Congrats on this. I don't know who told me it was 5.12. I think it was Reese. Anyway, it was a project and, as you have witnessed, routes tend to change around these parts.

So, now that y'all are psyched on cleaning stuff, you should fix up Monstrosity and 8 Lives. Also, that bolted thing up the road near the Black Wall is probably 10+ and would be fantastic with a little cleaning. And I'd say there are another couple of steep routes that could be done in that area. I'm suspecting it was bolted by Mike Gould, based on the bolts, which look like the ones he got from me. Jul 30, 2008
Brian S
 
Brian S  
 
I thought it was a high 11. The guide listed it as 12b/c project which distorted my initial grading.

I am not scared of choss. On the other hand, my belayer(s) were terrified. Jul 11, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
5.11c
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
5.11c
I was simply shocked by the rock quality on the bottom 20 feet of this route--the route is literally disintegrating. Two of us climbed, and in just one send each, 10 or 15 POUNDS of rock fell off the wall. This route still needs a lot of cleaning. Amazingly, the rock quality changes dramatically up top. The rock on the part of the route that Brian setup is quite nice.

I added two beefy rappel rings to the anchor bolts (please don't swipe these).

There's no way this route is 5.12, unless you count the sketch-factor created by the loose rock. Jul 8, 2008
Brian S
 
Brian S  
 
I added one bolt and anchors above the three existing bolts on 5/28/08. I decided to go straight up and avoid the sketchy bolt.

Since I got the FA, I would like to change to the name to "IED aka Roadside Distraction." I realize other people have put work into the route and would like to respect them. The name change might not be possible.

It could be easier than 12a. I would like people to get on it and get a consensus grade.

Another bolt might have to be added lower to make the route safer. May 28, 2008