Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, Boulder, 50 ft
FA: Nick LeProhon & Eric Benevente
Page Views: 1,270 total, 80/month
Shared By: Somedude on Aug 25, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb either side of mini arete to 1st bolt. Then reach and clip 2nd bolt for the turning of the roof and after standing 3rd bolt appears for clipping, a smidgen of slab action and cobbles with another 4th & 5th bolt along the way to the anchors!

The start of the climb next to the boulder-bathroom that people go behind to relieve their body waste, hince the name *Ojai Urinal*
°fun fact° also named that thanks to bob banks, who said "i only stop at wheelers gorge to take a piss"

Location

Far left climb on cobble wall now more left than B free zone

Protection

Need 5 quickdraws and 2 anchors which have beefy mussy hooks for an easy wrap down

Photos

Christian B
West Hills, California
  5.11b V3
Christian B   West Hills, California
  5.11b V3
This climb is sweet. The crux had me for a sec. Once you get that right hand and then fire for the next hold, it's like 3 more moves of pumpy fun. Giving it 11b for the shortness of the crux but, also its still pretty rough. Wanna come back and get a clean send. Btw the name makes total sense. Oct 1, 2017
Stefan E
West Los Angeles, CA
 
Stefan E   West Los Angeles, CA
 
Interesting beta. Bouldering with a rope. I enjoyed the route despite the naming controversy. Jul 5, 2017
Somedude  
 
Thank you for actually climbing the route before weighing in, a serious appreciation and respect for that. Seems I noticed that someone who gave this a bomb has not been to Ojai in quite a while which is strange to me that their opinion has any value! But maybe I was raised not to be so quick to judge other people or the work they have done without first hand knowledge or experience. Dec 11, 2016
Maxwell Miller   Ojai
I'm just gonna chime in for fun... Nice route, looks fun, thanks for doing the work, as well as your work on the other routes. As far as the names go on your routes, I among other climbers in the area would like to keep an ethic that is conducive to a family oriented community. I will bring my daughter climbing here and when she asks me the name of this and other routes, I don't want to tell her the trashy names that are posted here. You, Eric the first ascentionist have the power to change this, its ultimately up to you. I think you should consider rethinking the names for the sake of others, put something thats meaningful to you that has to do with your effort on your projects, or even something that has to do with the provocative energy that's surrounding your effort. Just a suggestion. Sep 30, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
I need to start taking screen shots of classic comments before their authors (or the admins?) think twice and take them down.

"...step in a couple of squeezed piles before climbing a couple of squeezed piles..."

One of my all time favorites. Sep 25, 2016
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
 
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
 
William, it seems that you have no idea what's going on over here so I don't really know why you feel the right to an opinion. Search around for info before you tell an entire community to "harden the f- up". Sep 4, 2016
William Leventhal
Calabasas
William Leventhal   Calabasas
So what pray tell are the "local ethics"?

I'm all for solid Rawl Powers 5 piece bolts in soft rock but why all the controversy? What is so eggretious here other than a silly name for the route? Sep 3, 2016
Trevor Cox
Ojai, California
Trevor Cox   Ojai, California
Not exactly stoked on the name, but I'm excited to hop on and give it a go! Thanks for the addition. Sep 1, 2016
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
 
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
 
Hey William, Eric can be both "a good dude" AND violating local ethics and making stupid decisions at the same time. Life isn't linear buddy. Hope that isn't too complicated for you to grasp. Aug 31, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
William, I am going to take issue with your math. At least nine different locals have weighed in here and in the comments for neighboring routes to protest the recent antics. Aug 31, 2016
William Leventhal
Calabasas
William Leventhal   Calabasas
Eric and Nick are good dudes! Why all the hate? Sounds like you two locals got your panties in a bunch over what?? Someone adding a route to your local crag?

You two need to get some thicker skin and harden the F... up. Aug 31, 2016
Somedude  
 
Thanks for all the motivation and support everybody, glad people are enjoying some new climbs. Remember to have fun out there kids! Aug 28, 2016
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
 
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
 
I defiantly have no love for Eric. I remember coming across him and his Stoney point crew last year. They were rolling about 10 deep, had topropes set up on every climb below 5.11 but no one was using them, had a boom box blasting music and every so often some asshat would yell out "Stoney Point!" across the canyon. L.A. antics that don't belong in Ojai. I had heard that he was the one who had been replacing the bolt on Economique so I had a chat with him that quickly turned into a heated disagreement which resulted in him going back to epoxy the bolt in place after I told him I was going to chop it. (I still chopped it and removed as much epoxy as I could). It's too bad that he's putting routes up with crummy names and crowding the space so much. I really wish he'd stay out of Ojai and put up shitty routes in his own backyard. Aug 28, 2016
Joe Garibay
Ventura, Ca
Joe Garibay   Ventura, Ca
Is wheeler on the cusp of turning into a dump? I love this place and it is deserving of much better and more creative names for the routes. These truly show lack of imagination. Aug 28, 2016
Jake CR
 
Jake CR  
 
Really sad to see this. Eric Benevente (aka Somedude) is behind a number of BS maneuvers at Wheeler. He is the one who kept adding the bolt to the Economique start (how many times?), naming Bitch Free Zone, and now Ojai Urinal. I'm told it was him who placed the SUPER sketchy bolt in the cobble on Stolen From Mike. Great track record bro!

You're giving Stoney Point a bad name. Eric B, Mike L, Nick L...you guys should stay down south since you can't actually function respectfully in our beautiful area here. GTFO. Aug 27, 2016