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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: (FTR unknown) FA: Matthew Fienup, Nicole Clancy & Kathleen Wathan (Sep. 2009)
Page Views: 1,572 total, 16/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Sep 14, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A fun, moderate boulder problem leads to mellow slab climbing.

Scramble up from the streambed until reaching a grassy ledge, where 5th class rock begins. Undercling up and right into a small, left-facing dihedral. Stem your way up, eventually stepping right onto the headwall. Low angle slab climbing leads to the anchor.

Location

Located on the tier of rock below Exodus. Start in the stream bed, about 70 feet downstream and opposite of Ezra. Also, see the Wheeler Gorge Aerial View

Protection

4 lead bolts (1/2” Rawls), bolted top-anchor

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Unfortunately, the rock quality heading up and left was sketchy. A few large features broke during exploration. Mar 8, 2016
Trevor Cox
Ojai, California
 
Trevor Cox   Ojai, California
 
I second C.Cody's comment. Much nicer warm up, and cool stone!

Wondering if there could be a route developed going up and left, whereas this route goes right. Mar 7, 2016
C.Cody
Ventura,ca
 
C.Cody   Ventura,ca
 
great climb on nice rock! short but a great warm up for Wheeler! i prefer it to the conglomerate cobbles May 19, 2013
OK route. Did this and then traversed across the loose and vegetated terrace to the base of Exodus. Have been back a few times since, and this route has been wet most of the winter/spring. Give it a pass until drier weather Apr 22, 2010