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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2-3 5+
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Tony Becchio, Darren Odgers, Mike Forest
Page Views: 653 total · 25/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Aug 4, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Far left side of the wall. Steep moves to an arĂȘte with great position above the creek.

Location

Far left-side, at the bend in the creek.

Protection

6 bolts.

Photos

Chad Parker
Ventura, California
  5.10b
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
  5.10b
A huge jug broke off this route today. The one I was using to clip the second bolt. It still goes but I don't know if it makes the clip and moving past the crux any harder. I admit it feels much harder than 5.10-
I was told on the day it was 5.10b and that felt about right. Aug 23, 2016
Stephen D
  5.10b/c
Stephen D  
  5.10b/c
Three of us climbed this yesterday and we probably tore off 6+ pieces of rock (plus a few hundred pebbles). We all loved it and agreed it was amazing, but we seriously suggest caution for the belayers - if I had contacts in instead of my glasses I might be short an eye right now, and I was standing 20 feet back. Another belayer got hit 1 cm from their eye as well. Lots of shrapnel!
Felt harder than 10- but my guess is it changes as it cleans up. Loved it. Highly recommend it. Very sustained with fun moves and the classic wheeler style choss fest top out. My favorite move is the last move before the chains.

It's a good time to climb this one with the water so low. Sep 9, 2016

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