Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Alex Bury (GU 2014)
Page Views: 1,994 total · 35/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Mar 21, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A steep hand crack, 200 feet above the creek.
The crack heads out a roof and then carves around an incredibly positioned block of conglomerate.
The crux is short and comes right off the belay; easier but steep moves lead to the top.

Location

Approach via Riparian Daydream.

Protection

Midsize cams.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.11
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.11
Dev. Notes:
This crack had been pointed out to me since I first started climbing at Wheeler, and I would often look up and appreciate a certain aura about it. When I eventually decided to check it out, I was determined to do it in good traditional style, and succeeded after a few attempts and one revisit.
Michael Kaffel had volunteered to follow me up the backside and see if we could even get to the start. It was late in the day, so I figured we would be lucky to get there before dark. I planned to rig a fixed line, allowing for quick access later, and grabbed the cams last minute in a "what-the-heck" gesture.
A full pitch of vertical bushwacking landed me on the ridge, where I rigged a line and Mike jugged up. A prominent block on the ridge seemed like it might be the backside of the climb. A short, tethered step around the side revealed the route, and a perfectly positioned ledge for the belay. Things looked really good, and combined with the exposure, my heart started racing.
We still had a bit of light left and I could not resist giving it a go. We hadn't brought a bolt kit, so the belay consisted of a section of rope rigged to a bush. I could place a solid, red camalot while standing on the ledge, but further placements would require actually climbing.
The onsight attempt ended at the lip, pulling off a couple cobbles, then finally pumping out and falling on the red cam. The short drop back down to the belay ledge was safe enough, with my feet landing lightly next to Mike. I gave it two or three more tries from the start and got spat off in the same spot. Darkness set upon us and I threw in the towel.
Mike told me it would be two weeks before he could join me again. I spent those days mentally reviewing the scene at the lip and considering a different sequence. When we finally returned, I was able to dispatch the line first go.
Mar 21, 2014
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
I looked at this climb from below Ezra and Alex, you're 1 crazy guy... Great job climbing this line. Very impressive. Mar 22, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
I've stared at this for over a decade. Even tried to scramble up on 2 different occasions to check it out. The approach alone turned me back. Solid work.

Alex, have you looked at the wall up and right from the top of Danger Boy & Velocity Boy? You might be just the person to open that awesome looking wall. Mar 22, 2014
Cole Gibson  
 
Looks like the coolest new climb to go down in Ojai for quite some time. Congrats dude! Hopefully I have the balls to give it a shot... Mar 31, 2014