Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2-3 5+
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Alex Bury (GU 2014)
Page Views: 1,915 total · 36/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Mar 21, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A steep hand crack, 200 feet above the creek.
The crack heads out a roof and then carves around an incredibly positioned block of conglomerate.
The crux is short and comes right off the belay; easier but steep moves lead to the top.

Location

Approach via Riparian Daydream.

Protection

Midsize cams.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.11
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.11
Dev. Notes:
This crack had been pointed out to me since I first started climbing at Wheeler, and I would often look up and appreciate a certain aura about it. When I eventually decided to check it out, I was determined to do it in good traditional style, and succeeded after a few attempts and one revisit.
Michael Kaffel had volunteered to follow me up the backside and see if we could even get to the start. It was late in the day, so I figured we would be lucky to get there before dark. I planned to rig a fixed line, allowing for quick access later, and grabbed the cams last minute in a "what-the-heck" gesture.
A full pitch of vertical bushwacking landed me on the ridge, where I rigged a line and Mike jugged up. A prominent block on the ridge seemed like it might be the backside of the climb. A short, tethered step around the side revealed the route, and a perfectly positioned ledge for the belay. Things looked really good, and combined with the exposure, my heart started racing.
We still had a bit of light left and I could not resist giving it a go. We hadn't brought a bolt kit, so the belay consisted of a section of rope rigged to a bush. I could place a solid, red camalot while standing on the ledge, but further placements would require actually climbing.
The onsight attempt ended at the lip, pulling off a couple cobbles, then finally pumping out and falling on the red cam. The short drop back down to the belay ledge was safe enough, with my feet landing lightly next to Mike. I gave it two or three more tries from the start and got spat off in the same spot. Darkness set upon us and I threw in the towel.
Mike told me it would be two weeks before he could join me again. I spent those days mentally reviewing the scene at the lip and considering a different sequence. When we finally returned, I was able to dispatch the line first go.
Mar 21, 2014
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
I looked at this climb from below Ezra and Alex, you're 1 crazy guy... Great job climbing this line. Very impressive. Mar 22, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
I've stared at this for over a decade. Even tried to scramble up on 2 different occasions to check it out. The approach alone turned me back. Solid work.

Alex, have you looked at the wall up and right from the top of Danger Boy & Velocity Boy? You might be just the person to open that awesome looking wall. Mar 22, 2014
Cole Gibson  
 
Looks like the coolest new climb to go down in Ojai for quite some time. Congrats dude! Hopefully I have the balls to give it a shot... Mar 31, 2014

More About The Wheel

Printer-Friendly