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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, 1992
Page Views: 1,829 total, 13/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 22, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun climb on excellent rock. Not nearly as sustained as Danger Boy.

Start with a series of fun moves on the right side of a steep arete (5.9). Avoid stepping left into the dirty corner for as long as possible. After gaining a large ledge, easy climbing follows a series of broken features to the crux.

The one-move crux is pulling straight up over a small roof (5.11a, only 5.10d for the over six-foot crowd). Take the time to find the positive crimp for your right hand before pulling. Stepping right or left to avoid the steepest line drops the grade to as low as 5.9.

Protection

7 bolts to chains.

The crux is very well protected.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
The moves up to and off of the right-hand crimp, over the roof....awesome!
May 5, 2013
Andrew McMullen
  5.11a
Andrew McMullen  
  5.11a
Do this climb! Stay right of the roof or pull directly...the most fulfilling move of the climb is clipping the bolt above the roof from the crimp. So good! Oct 9, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
A supremely better line than "escaping" in to the mungy corner left of the arete. Please, take my advice and stay right. To be sure, the climbing is harder, but it is also more elegant and rewarding. The corner is filthy and undignified. The crux at the roof clocks in around 5.11a/b. Then it's over; short and decidedly sweet.

One variation is to climb Danger Boy to the ledge, then traverse left and up (slightly runout) and surmount the roof of Stu Boy. It's super fun, and you get more 5.11 climbing in than on the original Danger Boy. Aug 16, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Originally listed as 5.9, with an 11b variation that stays right of the bolts through the roof and face. Jan 24, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
The Edwards guide book refers to a 5.9 version that stays left in the dirty corner to avoid the roof. This is not recommended.

This corner is filled with loose rock, and clipping the top 2 bolts is awkward and difficult.
Feb 22, 2006