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Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 33
votes
Routes in Wheeler Gorge
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Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5 |
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Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A |
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Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 75 ft |
| FA: | Stuart Ruckman, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 1,879 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Feb 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Fun climb on excellent rock. Not nearly as sustained as Danger Boy.
Start with a series of fun moves on the right side of a steep arete (5.9). Avoid stepping left into the dirty corner for as long as possible. After gaining a large ledge, easy climbing follows a series of broken features to the crux.
The one-move crux is pulling straight up over a small roof (5.11a, only 5.10d for the over six-foot crowd). Take the time to find the positive crimp for your right hand before pulling. Stepping right or left to avoid the steepest line drops the grade to as low as 5.9.
Start with a series of fun moves on the right side of a steep arete (5.9). Avoid stepping left into the dirty corner for as long as possible. After gaining a large ledge, easy climbing follows a series of broken features to the crux.
The one-move crux is pulling straight up over a small roof (5.11a, only 5.10d for the over six-foot crowd). Take the time to find the positive crimp for your right hand before pulling. Stepping right or left to avoid the steepest line drops the grade to as low as 5.9.
Ventura, CA
This corner is filled with loose rock, and clipping the top 2 bolts is awkward and difficult.
Feb 22, 2006
Sacramento, CA
Carpinteria, CA
One variation is to climb Danger Boy to the ledge, then traverse left and up (slightly runout) and surmount the roof of Stu Boy. It's super fun, and you get more 5.11 climbing in than on the original Danger Boy. Aug 16, 2010
Ojai, CA
May 5, 2013