Type: Sport
FA: J Ouyang, Nick Wiltsie, Brian Pidduck (Spring 2005)
Page Views: 1,854 total · 12/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

One of the newest route at Wheeler Gorge.

Location

Starts the same as Exodus and heads left.

Protection

4-5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with one rap-ring and one open shut (an odd pairing).

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10-
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10-
First Ascent party called the route 5.6. I have only climbed Exodus which shares the first bolt or two; however, I remember the start of that route feeling at least 5.8 and perhaps harder. Please share your thoughts about an appropriate grade for Dust Bunnies. Aug 23, 2006
kraus56  
Not 5.6 at all. More like mid 10 Wheeler style Jun 10, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10-
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10-
Finally got on this route today--the initial overhang is definitely 5.10-. Midway up the route, the climber is forced to pull on loose, hollow-sounding flakes for over a body-length of climbing. If a hold were to break, you'd take a huge, swinging fall. Scared the s*#t out of me. Jun 30, 2009
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
After the overhang crux it goes at about 5.9 just don't look back at the swing you'll take if you fall. Jan 19, 2017