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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport
FA: J Ouyang, Nick Wiltsie, Brian Pidduck (Spring 2005)
Page Views: 1,702 total, 12/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

One of the newest route at Wheeler Gorge.

Location

Starts the same as Exodus and heads left.

Protection

4-5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with one rap-ring and one open shut (an odd pairing).

Photos

Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
After the overhang crux it goes at about 5.9 just don't look back at the swing you'll take if you fall. Jan 19, 2017
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Finally got on this route today--the initial overhang is definitely 5.10-. Midway up the route, the climber is forced to pull on loose, hollow-sounding flakes for over a body-length of climbing. If a hold were to break, you'd take a huge, swinging fall. Scared the s*#t out of me. Jun 30, 2009
kraus56  
Not 5.6 at all. More like mid 10 Wheeler style Jun 10, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
First Ascent party called the route 5.6. I have only climbed Exodus which shares the first bolt or two; however, I remember the start of that route feeling at least 5.8 and perhaps harder. Please share your thoughts about an appropriate grade for Dust Bunnies. Aug 23, 2006