Avg: 2.9 from 28 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 1995|
|Page Views:||6,812 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006|
|Admins:||andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
The crux is actually clipping the last three bolts while hanging off of the arete (the climbing itself does not feel 5.10c). The bolts were actually placed to protect a climb up the middle of the face (to the right of the arete, 5.11+). Thus, clipping the top three bolts requires a LONG and awkward reach. Blow the clip and you will take a very clean but very LONG fall into space.
Note, a lot of rock still comes off of this route. The belayer should not stand on the wooden ledge. Instead, position him/her on the large sycamore tree which can be slung as a ground anchor. Helmets are a must.
This route is sustained, exposed, and aesthetic...one of the very best in Santa Barbara and Ventura counties.
Climbing to the first bolt involves a 5.10a move over an ugly landing. Falling would be disastrous. All but the boldest climbers should bring a stick-clip.