Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 1995
Page Views: 5,750 total · 35/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Starts at a little wooden ledge above the creek. The route follows a short face and then continues up the right-hand side of a slighty overhanging arete.

The crux is actually clipping the last three bolts while hanging off of the arete (the climbing itself does not feel 5.10c). The bolts were actually placed to protect a climb up the middle of the face (to the right of the arete, 5.11+). Thus, clipping the top three bolts requires a LONG and awkward reach. Blow the clip and you will take a very clean but very LONG fall into space.

Note, a lot of rock still comes off of this route. The belayer should not stand on the wooden ledge. Instead, position him/her on the large sycamore tree which can be slung as a ground anchor. Helmets are a must.

This route is sustained, exposed, and aesthetic...one of the very best in Santa Barbara and Ventura counties.

Protection

8 bolts to 3 bolt top anchor. Top Anchors consist of two 1/2" Rawls with open shuts (the original hardware) and one Fixe Triplex with a Mussy Hook.

Climbing to the first bolt involves a 5.10a move over an ugly landing. Falling would be disastrous. All but the boldest climbers should bring a stick-clip.

Photos