Avg: 2.8 from 21 votes
Routes in Wheeler Gorge
|Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5|
|Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A|
|Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 1995|
|Page Views:||5,347 total, 37/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionStarts at a little wooden ledge above the creek. The route follows a short face and then continues up the right-hand side of a slighty overhanging arete.
The crux is actually clipping the last three bolts while hanging off of the arete (the climbing itself does not feel 5.10c). The bolts were actually placed to protect a climb up the middle of the face (to the right of the arete, 5.11+). Thus, clipping the top three bolts requires a LONG and awkward reach. Blow the clip and you will take a very clean but very LONG fall into space.
Note, a lot of rock still comes off of this route. The belayer should not stand on the wooden ledge. Instead, position him/her on the large sycamore tree which can be slung as a ground anchor. Helmets are a must.
This route is sustained, exposed, and aesthetic...one of the very best in Santa Barbara and Ventura counties.
Protection8 bolts to 3 bolt top anchor. Top Anchors consist of two 1/2" Rawls with open shuts (the original hardware) and one Fixe Triplex with a Mussy Hook.
Climbing to the first bolt involves a 5.10a move over an ugly landing. Falling would be disastrous. All but the boldest climbers should bring a stick-clip.