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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Edwards, Gupta, Gould (1995)
Page Views: 1,271 total, 10/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts about 80 feet to the right of Ezra (5.9+) on a slightly overhanging face right over the water. The crux is the first 15 feet: think bouldery, think slick, polished feet.

(*) High water would make the start very tricky, if not impossible.

Protection

Bring four quickdraws and there are two cold shut anchors at the top.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Ditto. This was my first 5.12. And yes, per Mr. Edward's comments, I had to dry a certain critical foothold. Think: bouldering with a rope. Aug 15, 2010
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
Great little route.
Super good rock, cool bouldery start, and well placed bolts make this a perfect first 12 for someone. May 27, 2010
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
been wanting to climb this route. will update.... Apr 29, 2010
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Mike, that's not true (maybe on this site). I bolted it and climbed it on the same day. Great rock, actually, but a bit short, hard to start, and often underwater. The crux is the very first move, as I recall. I had to dry a foot that is perpetually wet before each try. If you pull through the first move it's 5.11 A0. Feb 24, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Originally called "Unnamed 5.12a (5.10, A0)". Jan 24, 2009