Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gould, Agulara (1994)
Page Views: 1,069 total · 7/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 17, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This route follows the arete to the right of Danger Boy and joins that route at mid-height.

The opening moves are tricky and sequential--sometimes they feel absolutely dumbfounding. Once you're off the ground, straightforward and interesting moves lead up the arete to a large ledge. Once on the ledge, the route moves left and continues on the exposed upper headwall of Danger Boy.

For full value, avoid stemming wide to the concrete wall.

Protection

7 bolts to open shuts.

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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Concrete is always "off" isn't it? Aug 24, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
At first glance, the opening moves of this route look frustratingly hard. Once you figure out the sequence, however, you might kick yourself for making things so difficult.

Good route. Much better than Danger Boy. May 30, 2009
KJ
KJ  
Both good routes, WAY harder than rated.
july 09 Jul 5, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Yeah, this route is hard, but not "way" harder than it's rated. This type of rock can be slippery and confusing at first, but I would call this line solid 5.11c. No harder. Aug 16, 2010
Justine Jenkins
FAYETTEVILLE, WV
Justine Jenkins   FAYETTEVILLE, WV
Maybe I was just missing the sequence, but I don't see how there is any universe where this route is llc. I'm not sure if this is a height dependent route or not, but the moves down low seemed heinously difficult for the grade. Dec 8, 2015
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.11c
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.11c
For a while I'd been using a sequence at the start that was more like 12a. But I eventually found better beta that felt the grade; proper footwork will help you get a foot on the big blocky hold, and then its a wrap. Dec 9, 2015