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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gould, Agulara (1994)
Page Views: 984 total · 7/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 17, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route follows the arete to the right of Danger Boy and joins that route at mid-height.

The opening moves are tricky and sequential--sometimes they feel absolutely dumbfounding. Once you're off the ground, straightforward and interesting moves lead up the arete to a large ledge. Once on the ledge, the route moves left and continues on the exposed upper headwall of Danger Boy.

For full value, avoid stemming wide to the concrete wall.

Protection

7 bolts to open shuts.

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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Concrete is always "off" isn't it? Aug 24, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
At first glance, the opening moves of this route look frustratingly hard. Once you figure out the sequence, however, you might kick yourself for making things so difficult.

Good route. Much better than Danger Boy. May 30, 2009
Both good routes, WAY harder than rated.
july 09 Jul 5, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Yeah, this route is hard, but not "way" harder than it's rated. This type of rock can be slippery and confusing at first, but I would call this line solid 5.11c. No harder. Aug 16, 2010
Maybe I was just missing the sequence, but I don't see how there is any universe where this route is llc. I'm not sure if this is a height dependent route or not, but the moves down low seemed heinously difficult for the grade. Dec 8, 2015
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.11c
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.11c
For a while I'd been using a sequence at the start that was more like 12a. But I eventually found better beta that felt the grade; proper footwork will help you get a foot on the big blocky hold, and then its a wrap. Dec 9, 2015

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