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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 1994/5
Page Views: 1,765 total · 12/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

One of the best routes at Wheeler. Fun and well-protected climbing on soft sandstone. A 5.10b "R" variation heads straight up from fourth bolt. A new route called Sunshine Dust Bunnies cuts left at the first bolt.

Starts left of the lower tunnel above the creekbed. Don't let the honking cars distract you.

Protection

8 protection bolts to chain anchor.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
8 bolts.

Most climbers skip the last bolt and exit up and right on an obvious crack/small-corner. Doing so reduces the route to just 5.10+. Hanging with the thin edges and clipping the last bolt feels more like 5.11b, unless you find the secret jug located way out left.

Be advised that the rock on this route is quite soft. Though the protection bolts are tightly spaced, all should be treated cautiously. More than one of them can be wiggled in their holes.

Gaining the first bolt requires 25 feet or so of awkward and unprotected climbing (5.7?). A #1 and #3 TCU protect this section nicely. Feb 23, 2006
Anyone know if you're supposed to traverse left of the crack between bolts 6 and 7? Looked like there was a nice side pull way left of the crack but it seemed to be off route judging by the picture. Gave this route a try yesterday and was stuck around there. 4 days ago
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I second the opinion that staying left on the last few bolts raises the grade quite a bit. Going direct makes most sense given the logic of the features, but the bolt line offers a seemingly different--yet compelling--line of travel. Nov 20, 2007

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