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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Steve Edwards & Arvind Gupta, 1995
Page Views: 2,863 total, 24/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Rather than traversing in from the left like its neighbor Aha!, Silent Mind gains the arete via a direct line of attack. Clip a bolt about seven feet above the water, gain a cobbled undercling, power through some fun pockets, then charge past the last bolt for an exciting crux right below the shuts. Finish on a jug just past the shuts.

Location

Shares the same anchor as Aha! but starts direct. The belay is a bit precarious over the water.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts. Shuts (new as of November, 2007).

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
After losing the blocky undercling down low and a couple pieces off the crux, this route's in pretty solid shape. It's worth mentioning that the original line ends at a jug just beyond the anchor (many opt to skip the last few moves with a super reachy clip at the shuts). Aug 11, 2016
Jack Hereford
Tucson, AZ
 
Jack Hereford   Tucson, AZ
 
Awesome route! we just yanked the rope really hard after lowering and kept it from getting wet, I however almost went for a swim while jumping back from the wall... the crux was getting back to dry land! Andy I think you owe me a beer:) Dec 3, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Brilliant. Prior to this post, I actually figured out how to pull my rope without getting it wet, and my method was very similar to yours. Great post, Joe. Aug 18, 2011
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.11b
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.11b
How to pull your rope from the route without getting it in the creek: the giant M

1. Climb "Cruiser" or "Cobble Climb."
2. Clean the Cruiser/Cobble Climb (C/CC) anchor and rappel.
3. Leave your rope in place through this anchor, with one end just touching the ground and a big pile of rope on the other end.
4. Take the big pile of rope over to Silent Mind (SM), tie into that end, and lead SM.
5. Follower climbs on the same end as the leader in this scheme, so the leader can unclip/reclip draws on the way down to clean up the rope's direction if you choose. Follower climbs, cleans route, rappels/lowers.
6. You have now made a giant M out of your rope. One person now returns to the base of C/CC to pull the rope while another person remains near the base of SM with the middle of the rope in hand to direct it out of the water as the rope-puller begins to pull.
7. Pull the rope from the base of C/CC. First the middle of the rope will go up and the person holding at the base of SM can easily keep this part out of the water. Then, because the two anchors in use are in fact close enough together relative to their height above the water, when the end slips out of the SM anchor it safely avoids the water and lands in the dirt below C/CC after pulling through that anchor.

Viola!

Caveats:
This technique requires at least a 60m rope.
To keep the middle part of the rope out of the water during the lead of SM, clip it taut to the belayer.
The order of C/CC and SM could of course be reversed.
This technique takes up a lot of real estate, so it is not recommended during crowded periods.
Aug 15, 2011
hardest 5.11 in Wheeler. Jun 6, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I climbed this line on a hot Sunday in August¬ómuch like the first ascent, I imagine¬óbut even though it was baking in Ojai, the rock on this side of the gorge remained cool, crisp, and perfect. This route continues to be one of the better, more sustained 5.11's at the Gorge. A must do. If you can figure out how to pull your rope from the route without getting it in the creek, I'll buy you a beer. Aug 16, 2010
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
best route at the place! only granite in ventura! Apr 29, 2010
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
FA: me n' Arvind Gupta, summer of '95 on a 100 degree day. Jul 30, 2008