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All Locations > California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge

Ezra

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British


 Avg: 2.1 from 78 votes

Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2-3 5+
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Gould, Agulara, 1994
Page Views: 2,471 total · 16/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A good intro to cobbles--straight-forward and fun. Quite a pretty little piece of rock.

The balancy crux sometimes spits off 5.10 climbers; however, it is so well protected that this is still a great lead even for those not yet comfortable at the grade.

Protection

4 bolts to bolted top anchor (1/2" wedge bolts) with Mussy Hooks.

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Photos

It's like climbing up the chimney of a little cottage in the woods--a real fairy-tale of a route. Here, Marisa Fienup, of Ventura, makes the long reach between positive holds.
It's like climbing up the chimney of a little c…
 5
Carlo Rivas on Ezra, Wheeler Gorge.
Carlo Rivas on Ezra, Wheeler Gorge.
 2
Liza Butler, of Sausalito, Calif.
Liza Butler, of Sausalito, Calif.
 4
<em>Ezra</em> from across the creek.
Ezra from across the creek.
 4
Andy nears the top of Ezra (5.9), at Wheeler Gorge.
Andy nears the top of Ezra (5.9), at Wheeler Go…
 1
Andy climbs Ezra (5.9), at Wheeler Gorge.
Andy climbs Ezra (5.9), at Wheeler Gorge.
 0
Rachel Main and Laine MacTague, of Santa Paula, enjoy an idyllic day at Wheeler Gorge. Ezra (5.9)
Rachel Main and Laine MacTague, of Santa Paula,…
 0

7 Comments

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EnFuego
Seal Beach, Ca
  5.8
EnFuego   Seal Beach, Ca
  5.8
Seems as tho people have pulled cobbles at convenient locations to make this route easier. But then again, maybe it's a coincedence that these cobbles "fell" or "pulled" out. Please don't chip any holds. Jan 1, 2012
Khoi
Vancouver, BC
Khoi   Vancouver, BC
I did this climb in mid April of 2013. IIRC, virtually every hold I used was a cavity where a cobblestone once was.

Was it not like that when this climb was established?

Does any one know for sure? Dec 28, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
There are holes like these all over the walls of the gorge (even where no routes exist). On Ezra specifically, there have been no knew holes in the past 15 years. Dec 30, 2013
Kimba Homan
Kimba Homan  
Climbed Ezra today. Reached for one of those mini boulders set in the rock...and found it fractured vertically in several places...with about half the rock ready to fall out. It was about half way up on the far left side. Soon, there will be another giant "cavity where a cobblestone was once". It was rock solid a few weeks ago when I was there last!! Agree with Matt...it seems like a natural process. Apr 28, 2014
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
  5.9
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
  5.9
Fun, quality climb, with a thoughtful crux, worth the time. Jan 21, 2015
Zen Green
Newbury Park, CA
  5.9
Zen Green   Newbury Park, CA
  5.9
deceivingly pumpy 5.9 Apr 30, 2016
Scott Beatty
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9
Scott Beatty   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9
Very fun climb - I noticed a bit of a height advantage for some of the final clips. Great warmup, especially if Cruiser and Cobble climb have a crowd. Jun 11, 2018

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