Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,179 total · 39/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Aug 9, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Easy climbing past a couple bolts leads to the steeper face above.

*some looseness still lurks, especially at the first two bolts.
*just off route to the left is some poison oak; use care when lowering and tr'ing

Location

Left of 'South of the Trout Farm'. The first bolt is easy to miss, out left.

Protection

Five bolts.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
5.8+
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
5.8+
Two weeks back we noticed some bolts had sprouted left of Trout Farm. I gave the rig a whirl and was disappointed in the anchor, and the fact that this new line shared a bolt with Trout Farm. A new low bolt was also close enough that it could be used to avoid TF's unprotected start.

When new-routing, using hardware that is safe and proper is the first step. Respecting other people's lines, other user groups, and the area in general comes next. The rings were very thin, un-welded, with sharp edges where they'd been bent shut.

When it comes to adding variations to popular climbs, Id say tread carefully. Has the FA team been consulted? Were Agulara and Gould reached out to? And what about the general community? Trout Farm has been there for about 20 years. Will people appreciate a new line squeezed so close it shares a bolt? These are important questions that FA teams should consider.

Even after posting what I saw on MP, waiting a couple weeks, and talking to other area developers and climbers, no info got dredged up. The bolts were pulled, painted, and reinstalled with a beefy anchor up top. The start of the climb was moved left to keep things independent. Aug 9, 2016
Monika Anna
Ojai CA
  5.8
Monika Anna   Ojai CA
  5.8
It's a great route, and with the new facelift it's now safe and singular! Yay! Maybe someday we'll figure out the route builder, maybe not, but I love playing on this one and showing it to other climbers. Just needs more brushing and use to clear off all the debris and loose rock. Thanks for the TLC Alex! Aug 24, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
It could certainly be worse:
Aug 26, 2016
Maxwell Miller   Ojai
Hey somedude your route needed a face lift... personally I like that the new route has a distinguished line from South of the Trout Farm, to me it seems contrived that your line started independently from the original line then enters South of the Trout farm and deviates from it for the finish. I'm not sure who you are but if you were to discuss your line with some of the people who climb at wheeler regularly or the original first ascent team to O.K. it, you would not have gotten flack for it. As far as the route being re-equipped I think you should be happy that there are people who want to spend money to keep the area safe/well equipped. Aug 26, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Moving the bolt to poorer quality rock or to a location that infringes on the neighboring route should not be considered. Aug 26, 2016
Mr maxwell happy for me i dont really care what happens to this because its not my route but its been fun feeling all the love from rock climbers excited about rock climbing Aug 28, 2016
Trevor Cox
Ojai, California
 
Trevor Cox   Ojai, California
 
Thanks for fixing it up Alex! Can't wait to hop on this route. Sep 1, 2016
Joe Garibay
Ventura, Ca
  5.8
Joe Garibay   Ventura, Ca
  5.8
Pulled a hubcap sized boulder off the top left and down from anchors. Pretty scary considering that all I had to do was touch it. It could easily have come off with someone pulling their rope. Looks like more rock wants to peel off in the same area. Sep 25, 2016
michael w. levanduski
ventura
  5.9
michael w. levanduski   ventura
  5.9
i think this one is a 5-9, but maybe i am weak from all the time off and the 3 knee surgeries, but the line was fun, a little bit dirty down low but still a nice climb Sep 17, 2017
Kevin Fox
  5.9-
Kevin Fox  
  5.9-
Skip this climb. Awkward and dirty with mandatory use of loose holds to make the last move with the last bolt below your feet. Plenty of other fun routes in the area Nov 13, 2017
i accidentally pulled off multiple 6" chunks of rock between the 2nd/3rd bolt while leading the route this week. Took a whip and almost smashed my belayers face with rocks. would recommend extra caution while climbing and belaying this route. there is a lot of loose blocks up there Jan 3, 2019
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
5.8+
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
5.8+
Glad nobody was hurt, Lindsey. It’s still a pretty junky route, hopefully it cleans up sooner than later.

Pull with care, folks. And wear a lid. Jan 5, 2019