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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Rainbow Trout
Page Views: 1,077 total · 40/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Aug 9, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Easy climbing past a couple bolts leads to the steeper face above.

  • some looseness still lurks at the first two bolts.
  • just off route to the left is some poison oak; use care when lowering and tr'ing


Left of 'South of the Trout Farm'. The first bolt is easy to miss, out left.


Five bolts.


Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
Two weeks back we noticed some bolts had sprouted left of Trout Farm. I gave the rig a whirl and enjoyed the climbing but was disappointed in the anchor, and the fact that this new line shared a bolt with Trout Farm. A new low bolt was also close enough that it could be used to avoid TF's unprotected start.

When new-routing, using hardware that is safe and proper is the first step. Respecting other people's lines, other user groups, and the area in general comes next. The rings were very thin, un-welded, with sharp edges where they'd been bent shut.

When it comes to adding variations to popular climbs, Id say tread carefully. Has the FA team been consulted? Were Agulara and Gould reached out to? And what about the general community? Trout Farm has been there for about 20 years. Will people appreciate a new line squeezed so close it shares a bolt? These are important questions that FA teams should consider.

Even after posting what I saw on MP, waiting a couple weeks, and talking to other area developers and climbers, no info got dredged up. The bolts were pulled, painted, and reinstalled with a beefy anchor up top. The start of the climb was moved left to keep things independent. Aug 9, 2016
Monika Anna
Ojai CA
Monika Anna   Ojai CA
It's a great route, and with the new facelift it's now safe and singular! Yay! Maybe someday we'll figure out the route builder, maybe not, but I love playing on this one and showing it to other climbers. Just needs more brushing and use to clear off all the debris and loose rock. Thanks for the TLC Alex! Aug 24, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
It could certainly be worse:
Aug 26, 2016
Maxwell Miller   Ojai
Hey somedude your route needed a face lift... personally I like that the new route has a distinguished line from South of the Trout Farm, to me it seems contrived that your line started independently from the original line then enters South of the Trout farm and deviates from it for the finish. I'm not sure who you are but if you were to discuss your line with some of the people who climb at wheeler regularly or the original first ascent team to O.K. it, you would not have gotten flack for it. As far as the route being re-equipped I think you should be happy that there are people who want to spend money to keep the area safe/well equipped. Aug 26, 2016
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
Regarding the second bolt: it is a lot closer to that ledge than I would have liked, but the draw hangs free when clipped/loaded.

Neither of the first two bolts could actually go where I initially wanted. In the pic you can see my chalk dot, up and left, where I'd originally chosen, until a few hammer taps encouraged me to look elsewhere. The hammer sung like it was Yosemite granite (by Wheeler standards...) over that ledge, so I compromised and went with that.

I'm open to try moving it if it actually makes people uncomfortable. In my opinion it's not that bad. And it affords the best rock in an especially poor section. Aug 26, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Moving the bolt to poorer quality rock or to a location that infringes on the neighboring route should not be considered. Aug 26, 2016
Mr maxwell happy for me i dont really care what happens to this because its not my route but its been fun feeling all the love from rock climbers excited about rock climbing Aug 28, 2016
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
I finally had a chance to come back and take a second look at this thing, and I'm happy to report its good-to-go. Solid clips and a bomber anchor.

I will say that it feels a bit ridiculous to take heat from the genius who bolted the cobble shown above (in our most popular zone, no less). But such is the way of the internet.

I think Lost Trout will prove to be a very popular line, and the name strikes me as quite apt. It's a worthy addition now that it's independent, with a stout anchor up top. Keep in mind the healthy poison oak specimen to the left. Aug 31, 2016
Trevor Cox
Ojai, California
Trevor Cox   Ojai, California
Thanks for fixing it up Alex! Can't wait to hop on this route. Sep 1, 2016
Joe Garibay
Ventura, Ca
Joe Garibay   Ventura, Ca
Pulled a hubcap sized boulder off the top left and down from anchors. Pretty scary considering that all I had to do was touch it. It could easily have come off with someone pulling their rope. Looks like more rock wants to peel off in the same area. Sep 25, 2016
michael w. levanduski
michael w. levanduski   ventura
i think this one is a 5-9, but maybe i am weak from all the time off and the 3 knee surgeries, but the line was fun, a little bit dirty down low but still a nice climb Sep 17, 2017
Kevin Fox
Kevin Fox  
Skip this climb. Awkward and dirty with mandatory use of loose holds to make the last move with the last bolt below your feet. Plenty of other fun routes in the area Nov 13, 2017

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