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Routes in Mt. Shasta

Avalanche Gulch Mod. Snow
Casaval Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Green Butte Ridge
Hotlum Glacier Route AI1-2 Steep Snow
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge AI1-2
West Face Gully
Type: Snow, Alpine, Grade III
FA: FA: 1963, Bob Rears and Jack Davidson
Page Views: 10,343 total, 105/month
Shared By: Ryan Kosh on Nov 19, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is a great training route that can be done in a long day, though most will choose to spend a night on the ridge. Probably the best route from the Bunny Flat Trailhead.


From Horse Camp climb the obvious ridge to the left. This joins Casaval at about 9,800 ft. Follow this ridge to the base of Misery Hill and then to the top.

Descent via West Face Gully or Avalanche Gulch is the easiest choice for parties doing this without setting up a base camp. Otherwise, descend back down the route (this is the safer choice during high avalanche danger as well).


Solo. Some parties choose to bring a rope and a few pickets to belay the exposed "catwalk" depending on conditions and experience.
Don Morris
Denver, CO
Don Morris   Denver, CO
Recommend high camp before summit at 11,800 feet. Also called the second window. A ski descent from here into Avalanche Gulch can be made. Apr 2, 2013
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
FA: 1963, Bob Rears and Jack Davidson. May 11, 2011
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
Thinking about running up this route as a more fun alternative to avalanche gulch.

How hard is routefinding? Both gaining the ridge, and the ridgeline before misery hill?

How much rock were you climbing versus snow? When do you think conditions will be best? Mar 30, 2010