Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 1,907 total · 14/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jul 18, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a good looking hand and fist crack. There's a chimney between the approach slab and this route and it's an easy step across to start the route. It's convenient to belay on the slab and there's gear available for a belay anchor (#3 Camalot and larger) so that leader and belayer don't accidentally end up in the chimney.

The jams are mostly wide hands and fists with a few good hand jams for those with average size hands.

Location

This route is located to the left of the Friday the 13th recess. One way to get there is to walk left from that route along the wall and when you get to a ramp system scramble up it. You'll soon reach a large slab in front of two cracks on the wall. This one is on the left and an 11a finger and hand crack is to its right.

Descend using a two-bolt rappel anchor. One could also walkoff to the climber's left. We saw this rappel anchor when we walked off Horticulture.

Protection

We used gear up to a #4 Camalot. Several #3 Camalots and a few slightly smaller pieces would fit the bill. There's a two-bolt rappel anchor at the top.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.9
5.8 compared to Lower Progressive! Pretty great route that is a decent warm up for harder routes in the area. Jun 12, 2014
bart cubrich 1
  5.8+
bart cubrich 1  
  5.8+
There is a rumor in Vedauwoo that this thing is a spicy lead...but don't be fooled! The gear is great as are the jams, and this thing is pretty casual for a Vedauwoo 5.9. So hop on it! Fun route! Oct 13, 2014
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
Cool route. I agree it's not a Voo 5.9, maybe 5.8. May 1, 2018