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Routes in Nautilus

A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+
Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cupcake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In The Dark T V5 6C
In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky You T V6 7A
Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+
Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
New Mutant T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Octagon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pretty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Republic, The V10 7C+
Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Shotgun Willy V5 6C
Sitdown Seam V3 6A
Slab Stealer T V4 6B
Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soak'em In Cider V5 6C
Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sun Up To Sundown V6-7 7A+
TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempest V9 7C
Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twinkle Toes V2 5+
Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5
Unknown Mantle V2 5+
Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A
Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+
Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:

Description

You can't miss this area. The Nautilus is named for the large feature on its top, forming a large roof, that looks like - you guessed it - a Nautilus shell. Trust me, if you can't find it, you're not looking. The approach to the nearest climbs from this lot is a mere 2 minutes.
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Getting There

Keep driving past the main area where you turn for the fee camping to the next parking area, also on your left. This is the dirt parking lot with the restroom/latrine (visible from the road). See the description above.

126 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nautilus

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Nautilus »

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Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
Question for anyone who knows the Nautilus well:

According to what I can find on mountainproject, Slat is where number 34 is pointing in this picture in the link below from the guidebook and where number 36 is pointing is not on mountainproject.

Who knows what route number 36 is pointing to in the picture? The guidebook is definitely wrong, and that line is definitely much harder than 5.7.

Thanks

mountainproject.com/v/11323… Jun 29, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
If you lost a #3 C4 at the Friday the 13th area a few weeks ago, let me know. Jun 29, 2017
Jralph  
Lost a pair of Evolv lace up climbing shoes. They are grey with green laces. Good karma your way if you found them and would want to get them back to me. Jun 13, 2014
If anyone has been out to the east end of the Nautilus this week, you will have noticed that someone painted a retarded bit of vandalism all over the bottom of grand traverse. I have watched Vedauwoo become increasingly abused over the last 6-7 years, but this really takes the cake. There will be efforts underway soon to clean this up, and complaints have been filed to the appropriate agencies. Nonetheless, I would warn anyone with knowledge of this that local Vedauwoo climbers are going to start getting really short tempers about this kind of shit. Of course, I would have to assume this is not the work of climbers but rather some dumb shit hikers or road side tourists. However, it is becoming increasingly common for large groups of partially clueless climbers to show up at the Nautilus and to treat the area with no respect, so I am losing the ability to give climbers the benefit of the doubt. When you show up at the Friday the 13th alcove as a group of 15 people, with multiple dogs, and gang bang top rope routes all day (and leave behind cigarette butts and bottles of red stripe), you should realize you are wearing out your welcome. Groups with 2 competent leaders and an army of toprope heroes should go somewhere else. Sep 26, 2012
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I dunno, if you consider Satterfields to be 5.8+, you'll be in for a rude awakening on Handjacker (which I think is 7+, but that's just cause I have the beta). Handjacker is definitely amongst the final climbs for any Nautilus OW101 course, although I feel Lower Slot Right is harder. It feels similar to Mother #1, both good routes to get your wide on. After that, you can graduate to some truly interesting climbs.

The crux on Satterfield's is NOT wide though, so while fun, it really has no business there. The wide stuff on Satterfield's is about 5.7 or so, and made a lot easier with copious face features. Jan 7, 2009
Jeremy Franz
Berthoud, CO
Jeremy Franz   Berthoud, CO
Steve Levin's Wide 101 course offered at the Nautilus:

Easy Jam 5.4
Baldwin's Chimney 5.4
Right Parallel Space 5.5
Piton Perch 5.6
Hamburger Crack 5.7
Candlestick 5.7
Lower Slot and Upper Slot 5.7+

Petsfed has offered the following additional selections for extra credit:

Horticulture 5.6
Handjacker 5.8-

And to graduate, you head over to Walt's Wall
Satterfield's Crack 5.8+ Jan 6, 2009
davebks
Louisville, Co
davebks   Louisville, Co
Thanks for all the info. Bringing tape but still might want to try and be rad anyway. Who knows...anything can happen :) Sep 12, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
There's some pretty good stuff out there. The easiest to find stuff is on the interstate side, along the trail. Soak'em In Cider, Cupcake, and a few others will jump right out at you. The rest you'll find with just a little bit of exploring. On the other side is the Dungeon, which can be hard to find if you don't know what you're looking for. Most of the good problems at Nautilus are cracks, or bloody hard. So bring tape, or be rad. Sep 11, 2008
davebks
Louisville, Co
davebks   Louisville, Co
I am heading out to this area for the first time tomorrow. I have some friends guiding up the climbs but anyone know how the bouldering is in this area? I have heard good things about Vedauwoo in general for bouldering, but how about in the Nautilus area? Worth bringing the pad?

Thanks! Sep 11, 2008
davebks
Louisville, Co
davebks   Louisville, Co
Any good photos out there with routes marked? Nautilus specifically?
I see a good pana shot but nothing with the routes marked. Of course if there was a good shot with routes marked, it would probably be on here, huh? Well, never hurts to ask.
Thanks! Sep 10, 2008
angry  
Whipping Boy was actually climbed a number of years ago by Mike Johnson and Steven Alderman. It's still a quality route. What really ticks me off is some of the bolting that locals have tolerated. I noticed this fall that an an old toprope/headpoint project in the Three Sisters Area has become a sport route- bolts next to a handcrack up high. What happened to locals policing each other? Jan 20, 2006
Whipping Boy - 11C, a good OW over by Hello Stupid. Thrust your body wholeheartedly into the overhanging squeeze chimney to get to some hand and fist stacks that are followed by a sorta rest, then do some fists and then hands in a tight corner. Cool route and has not seen a second ascent that I know of. Good fun. Nov 11, 2003
Actually, the Nautilus is named after the submarine in Jules Verne's novel "20,000 Leagues Under the Sea". Hence the referential route names like Captain Nemo (who piloted the sub in the book), the Torpedo Tubes (which are perfectly placed on the prow of the "ship"), etc. The thingy on top really doesn't look much like a nautilus shell, but the whole formation really does look a **lot** like a submarine surfacing when viewed from a distance.

Anyway, the Nautilus is a great crag; probably the best at Vedauwoo, with many, many high-quality routes on all sides. My personal fave is Flying Buttress -- short but super aesthetic and fun. May 11, 2003
The Nautilus is one of the best crags in the Front Range. On it are a wide variety of climbs- both crack and face- at all levels of difficulty. It is a very popular crag, and some areas (in particular the Friday the 13th alcove) can get congested on the weekend with climbers taking turns on the classics. Weekdays you still can have the place to yourself. From the highway the crag looks like a giant submarine emerging from the depths (hence the "Torpedo Tubes"). It is possible to follow sun or shade around the crag throughout the day. The shaded N side can be buggy, but a breeze is usually enough to keep them down. Try to stay on the trails, since the area was reseeded after the fences were put up (you used to camp under the boulders)- I know, there are cows in there at times, and it may seem pointless, but try. There is excellent bouldering to be had in the boulders surrounding the crag, but be prepared to do some crack climbing. Some of the descents are walk-offs, but for many climbs you will need to rappel. Around the W/SW side of the crag (near the outhouse/parking area), there are various tricks for scrambling off of certain climbs, but be prepared to rappel anyhow. One of the local entertainments is to rappel the prominent fin which caps the high point of the crag in this area. At the E prow area (by the Torpedo Tubes) the standard rap route from the "summit" of the prow is down Middle Parallel Space to the top of the large block which forms the Right Parallel Space chimney, then to the ground. One rope only. Many of the other climbs in this vicinity have rap anchors or lowering stations. There is a 3rd/4th Class descent left of the the Friday the 13th alcove (when viewing the crag); this is obvious and requires a short section of downclimbing. The area above this descent is interesting to explore. I can't even begin to list the classic climbs to do- for the most part you get what you see. Look under Baldwin's Chimney and some of the other easy-moderate climbs (5.4-5.8); I put together a fun little tick-list for wide cracks, kind of a "Intro to Wide Cracks 101" course. In the 5.9-5.10 range there is Middle Parallel Space, Lower progressive, Flying Buttress, Baalbek, and many other good routes. 5.11 is a great grade on this crag, and most of the 25+ routes in this grade are worth doing. Look for Friday the 13th, Ghost Dance, Max Factor, Crankenstine, and many others. A double set of cams to #4 Camalot, a few 5" to 6" pieces, and a handful of wireds, TCUs, and QDs should keep you out of trouble, but it's usually pretty obvious if you need more (especially bigger) gear. Have fun! May 3, 2002

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