Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,621 total · 12/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a thought-provoking climb involving crack, face, and slab moves, all in just 40 feet! Start up a broken crack system, being careful for rotten rock. Surmount the hand crack, and rest on a ledge. Place gear in the crack before it peters out, and climb some face moves to the top of the block. Exciting.

Location

This is on the East side of the Ted's Trot Block. It is to the right of Bombay and Deep Throat, left and around the corner from Ted's Trot. Start up the discontinuous cracks, over a jumbled boulder start.

Protection

Standard rack to #2 Camalot. Make sure to leave a #0.5-1 Camalot sized piece for the crack before the face section. Watch out for rotten rock at the start. Build an anchor with hand-sized pieces. Bolts on top of the block.

Photos

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Climbs better than it looks. Some funky body position eases the difficulties down low. Don't yard too hard on the opening moves, as I think the rock is fairly loose. It's a bit runout to the anchors. Jun 14, 2011
Deke Doty
Fort Collins, CO
Deke Doty   Fort Collins, CO
There is a two bolt anchor a few slabby moves above the top o' the crack. Anchor building is not necessary. Aug 29, 2011
bart cubrich 1
  5.9-
bart cubrich 1  
  5.9-
This climb is great! It is rated PG in some books, but it's only about 7' from last pro to anchors. Jun 2, 2014