Type: Trad
FA: Skip Hamilton, Jerry Sublett, c.1969
Page Views: 1,175 total · 18/month
Shared By: Christina kalb on Sep 1, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Climb the crack directly left of Lower Slot. It starts smaller and widens at the top. The crux is exiting the crack around the chockstone.

Protection

This climb eats medium to large passive gear. It will also take cams in the 0.75 to 3 range. You may want a larger piece for the top.

Photos

Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.7
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.7
The climbing to the first horizontal break can feel pretty tenuous and runout. Your first real gear is right at the break, and it's awesome and easy to place. It's not a 5.7 sequence, but for a long time, that felt like the crux for me, since the rest of the pitch involves really secure jams. Feb 4, 2015
David Bruneau
St. John
 
David Bruneau   St. John
 
I remember feeling uncomfortable about 3 or 4 feet below the break without any gear yet, so I put the biggest nut I could find on a 120 cm sling and swung it into the obvious bucket about 4 feet above me. Turned out to be bomber. Aug 17, 2015
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
I managed to get a small TCU in before the horizontal break. Seemed bomber. Kind of sewed this climb up for a 5.7. Felt like the crux was getting established in the crack when it goes to the left at the top. No offwidth technique involved on this climb. Jul 31, 2016