Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Sam Lightner Jr and Penn Burris in like 1987
Page Views: 829 total · 7/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 7, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The route follows a thin crack to three bolts on a face.

At the time, it seemed hard, like 11+, but shoes were not designed for face climbing then... it's probably a lot easier.

The name came from the war that was going on in the American climbing scene. Veedauwoo was a bastion of anti-sport climbing, yet we put this up on rappel. There was much talk that one of the big players was gone up whoop us for it... turned out he liked the route.

Location

This is off the ledge at the southwest end of the Nautilus above TTL.

Protection

I can't remember. I do recall an RP high in the crack.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Seems like a strange route name, and now that I've seen it twice in 2 different areas (Red River Gorge being #2) named by different parties, I assume there is some pop or literary reference.

Pray tell, what is the story? Dec 8, 2008
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
  5.11
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
  5.11
Yeah, we listened to Zappa's Joes Garage a lot at that time. It was also about this time that Tipper Gore was pushing for the ratings on albums and Zappa and Dee Snyder were the guys who testified to Congress.
The Central Scrutinizer narrates the album and "enforces all the laws that haven't been passed yet." Dec 9, 2008
Bob Rotert  
 
Very cool route, Sam. What a contrast of crack climbing to hard face climbing. Jul 25, 2014
"'Come to Vedauwoo,' they said, 'you'll climb wide cracks,' they said..." - that's what was going through my mind as I pinched, crimped, and strained my eyes to find hints of shadows of the tiny crystals on this route after the too-thin finger crack ran out. Fun in a character building kind of way, I think.

Anyway, my gear recommendation in order: #0 C3, #8 BD nut, purple Link Cam, #0.4 C4, blue Totem, #0.4 C4, and 4 quickdraws for the bolts. There are 2 bolts for a rap anchor.

Oh, also, a #5 C4 is very useful - as a piece to anchor your belayer. Crawl under the start of the route and extend the cam, now you both won't fall off the wall if you blow the opening move or wreck the starting flake. Oct 25, 2018