Type: Trad
FA: Gary Isaacs, '70s
Page Views: 7,133 total · 29/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Aug 29, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Ghost Dance is a Vedauwoo area classic, combining a striking line with difficult and sustained climbing. GD is located left of the Friday the 13th alcove, on the SE side of the Nautilus; look for the left of three prominent, L-diagonal cracks before the alcove (the middle one, New Mutants, has a visible chain anchor at 60 feet), behind some aspen trees. From a block get yourself established in the crack. Struggle with the gear (an RP can be helpful) just as the "jams" become flared, karate-chop insecurities. A couple of difficult moves leads to wider, more positive jams, which in turn lead to wider struggling above. The upper crack is sustained, and succumbs to the usual Vedauwooesque thrashing. A long pitch. Descend by heading west (climber's left), following the line of least resistance to easy down climbing. Tape can be helpful in the shallow, technical jams. A really fine route: do it!


A few wired nuts, including an RP or two, up to a #4 Camalot. You can gauge how many of each size you want by looking at the crack from below, but probably gear in the 2" to 4" range should be emphasized.