Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: George Hurley, Phil Fowler, 1972
Page Views: 3,556 total · 31/month
Shared By: bart cubrich 1 on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

This route is one of the most overlooked excellent 5.9s in Vedauwoo. It starts with fantastic, overhanging jug hauling through a large chockstone but quickly moves into a classic Vedauwoo scrape, with sort of offwidth-chimney combination climbing as the crack flares intensely. Throughout the climb you will find jugs, excellent hand jams, flared hand jams, arm bars, chicken wings, and even fists. Go past the anchors for Bat Guano and Crankenstein, and head left of up 15 foot hand crack at the top. If you are feeling especially charitable, bring a wire brush and a trowel and remove some vegetation and lichen.

Location Suggest change

This the the dihedral directly left of Bat Gauno and about 17 yards right of October Light. This climb is a great warmup to a day on Crankenstein, October Light, or Bat Guano and is a great approach to Flare the Well and Jim Jam.

Protection Suggest change

A light Vedauwoo rack with a #3 and #4 Camalot, doubles of the hand stuff, and a few small pieces should suffice. A #0.2-sized X4 or equivalent piece is very nice for the start.

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