Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: George Hurley, Phil Fowler, 1972
Page Views: 699 total · 13/month
Shared By: bart cubrich 1 on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is one of the most overlooked excellent 5.9s in Vedauwoo. It starts with fantastic, overhanging jug hauling through a large chockstone but quickly moves into a classic Vedauwoo scrape, with sort of offwidth-chimney combination climbing as the crack flares intensely. Throughout the climb you will find jugs, excellent hand jams, flared hand jams, arm bars, chicken wings, and even fists. Go past the anchors for Bat Guano and Crankenstein, and head left of up 15 foot hand crack at the top. If you are feeling especially charitable, bring a wire brush and a trowel and remove some vegetation and lichen.

Location

This the the dihedral directly left of Bat Gauno and about 17 yards right of October Light. This climb is a great warmup to a day on Crankenstein, October Light, or Bat Guano and is a great approach to Flare the Well and Jim Jam.

Protection

A light Vedauwoo rack with a #3 and #4 Camalot, doubles of the hand stuff, and a few small pieces should suffice. A #0.2-sized X4 or equivalent piece is very nice for the start.

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bart cubrich 1  
  5.9
I put the original grade for this route up, but it is heavily sandbagged due to the fact that it was put up at a time when people were reluctant to give a route 5.10. Oct 13, 2014