Type: Trad
FA: Scarpelli? Wilford and Mammen?
Page Views: 4,808 total · 23/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Locate the wide crack right of Baalbek, i.e. 2 cracks right of Bug Squad, 3 cracks right of Max Factor. Proceed to curse, thrutch, and thrash up the first 3 feet of the crack proper, then come down for a rest. Repeat until 1) worked too much and in need of a beer, or 2) you succeed in getting to the 5-foot mark. If in search of beer, locate the trail back to the parking lot, open vehicle, locate cooler, and swill. If at the 5-foot mark, continue to the 6-foot mark, and repeat every foot until at the anchors. You will know when you reach the anchors because you will feel an incredible sense of relief and an overwhelming desire to vomit. I climbed this left-side in, and really, the bottom bulge is a stand-out crux; the upper, fist crack is really just maintenance climbing, but the sort of maintenance that is investment-based, i.e. you keep fighting because you do not want to repeat the lower part. Rumor has it one of the hot young Boulder Rock Club climbers did this baby recently and declared it as hard as Vogue, Tommy Caldwell's 5.14b at the Industrial Wall. Now isn't this a fun sport?

Protection

A few larger cams (4 Camalot size) for the start, and several 3.5" cams for the rest. include a few stray wireds to 3" cams. Please, please, wear high-top climbing shoes, or at least tape your left ankle- it can get pretty bloody up there if you don't.

Photos

I've always wanted to try this one. Now after reading the description, I want to try it even more, though I am not sure I will make that 6 foot mark. The one thing that seems like it might help is to carry at least some of the beer to the base of the climb, so you don't have to walk the few hundred feet back to the car to get it. Aug 30, 2001
This route gets my vote for best blue-collar-puker on the front range. A great recommendation for the good looking sport climber type who occasionally ventures north from Boulder. The best thing is- these types usually have a babe-in-tow and you'll have plenty of time to get to know her while her beau is projecting on the gaping nightmare above. Bon Voyage! Nov 8, 2001
It helps to have soft shoes, especially on the right foot, when cresting the nastiest part of the squeeze/offwidth. Also, it is possible to stack your head and your left hand in the crack, if your hat size is around 7 3/4. Everyone should do this climb about once a year. May 20, 2003
After seeing this climb from across the valley on the Holdout, I had to do it. I am COVERED with sctraches and bruises but did manage to send. I wore out a right shoe and was dry heaving at the top. The last 30 feet are sinker hands, but you are so wasted it feels like you are climbing for your life! A head/hand stack is the ticket for a decent rest between cruxes. It is the most physical climb I have ever done and am still wasted two days later. If this 11.a I quit!!!!!!!!!!! Aug 3, 2003
Zack Whoever has just downgraded this route to 10d in his new Fat Country guidebook. Why not just call it 8- ??? What could he possibly be comparing it to? I hate to whine about grades, but I wonder if he has climbed it. Anyone would say 10d is nuts. If Spectreman still gets 11c. ML is 12 in my book. Mar 11, 2004
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
What's interesting is that on one page, it says 10d. On another page (where there's a photo of it), it says 11a. This is a well known sandbag coupled with the fact that you're at vedauwoo, means this should come as no suprise. Don't make it right, but you shouldn't be surprised. Mar 28, 2004
For some reason I thought this was rated 11d, and thought it wasn't too bad for the grade. Seeing that it is actually 11a makes more sense. It seemed pretty comparable to left torpedo tube. As for zach and his ratings, his cheesy little book doesn't have a single picture of Scarpelli in it. Pretty much makes the book completely invalid in my opinion. Aug 10, 2004
Just took a ride on "Hard To Believe" out at Blair on Moby Dick! High quality and BRUTAL as HELL. Recently TRIED "Crack off Fear" at Lumpy. Timed to except the fact that 10d/11a is the catch all hard grade for off width. After these experiences, 11a sounds about right for Maxilash. Sorry about the whining! Aug 13, 2004
Handsome B. Wonderful  
  5.10d
Sorry folks, but this climb is definitely not an .11 anything OW. It was originally rated .10d and that is the way it should stay. Maxilash is more of a hand crack guarded by an OW then a pure OW. Go heavy on the 2 and 3 Camalots and go light on the big stuff. If you think this is a sandbag then go to the other side of the Nautilus and get on October Light which is a real .11a offwidth. O.L. will definitely put things into perspective. Don't be intimidated by most of the comments on this page. This is a great climb and if you know how to climb wide cracks, it will be a very enjoyable route. May 30, 2005
Mike D
Fort Collins, CO
Mike D   Fort Collins, CO
Steve I believe you've got the first ascent info wrong on this one. Although it seems like Scarpelli did the FA to all the hard OW around here- my info credits Wilford and Mammen with the first ascent. Nov 12, 2007
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
I lead this with Mark Wilford in 1976. Of course Bob Scarpelli could have done it earlier. At the time we rated it 5.10a but that was back in the day when we were doing lots of wide cracks. May 25, 2010
Sam Coffin
bozeman, mt
 
Sam Coffin   bozeman, mt
 
Definitely felt 10+/11- for the Voo...cruxy start with some enduro big hands/fists to finish...super fun!! I felt a new #5 Camalot protected the crux start nicely.... Sep 12, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11a
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11a
Bring a large nut and a couple smaller pieces for the anchor (0.4, 0.75, #1). Sep 19, 2012
Rob DeZonia
  5.11a
Rob DeZonia  
  5.11a
WAY harder than Left Torpedo Tube! Zach's book downgrades a lot of already sandbag testpieces...including Left Torpedo Tube. (He also may have the worst case of first-ascentionitis of any other guidebook author.) I try to approach Vedauwoo routes with a sense of humor regarding the ratings; most are not even close to the Yosemite decimal system. They are some made up system. I call them Voo-ratings. At one point in time, 9+ was the hardest in the country. Now at least one of those routes is rated as hard as 12+. A route's "original" rating is fun but not always accurate or helpful, especially when mixed with a splash of ego and a dash of ignorance, and, I almost puked at the top too! Jul 14, 2014
Rob DeZonia
  5.11a
Rob DeZonia  
  5.11a
Also, someone put a rap anchor on top of the route this week. No anchor maker needed. Jul 14, 2014
This route is probably the one in which I've burned the most calories per vertical foot gained, and I was top-roping. Holy crap, this thing is hard. Aug 3, 2014
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
 
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
 
So physical and hard. Gotta love The Voo. Tape everything including your ankles. Sep 20, 2015
A-W
  5.10d
A-W  
  5.10d
Instead of thinking this climb is horrendesly sandbagged, you might try asking yourself why you suck. In my experience, this is good advice for Vedauwoo in general. Nov 6, 2015
Rob DeZonia
  5.11a
Rob DeZonia  
  5.11a
I get a little douche baggy when I drink and Mountain Project. I could've said, "One of my favorites in one of my favorite places. The Voo is humbling and magical." Apr 27, 2016
David Bruneau
St. John
 
David Bruneau   St. John
 
My beta was to lug up a couple bottles of water and stash them in the horizontal below the bulge. Beer could be effective as well. This beta definitely enabled me to fall out of the crux many more times than I could have otherwise. Jul 8, 2016