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Routes in Nautilus

A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+
Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cupcake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In The Dark T V5 6C
In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky You T V6 7A
Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+
Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
New Mutant T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Octagon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pretty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Republic, The V10 7C+
Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Shotgun Willy V5 6C
Sitdown Seam V3 6A
Slab Stealer T V4 6B
Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soak'em In Cider V5 6C
Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sun Up To Sundown V6-7 7A+
TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempest V9 7C
Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twinkle Toes V2 5+
Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5
Unknown Mantle V2 5+
Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A
Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+
Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Scarpelli? Wilford and Mammen?
Page Views: 4,421 total, 22/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Locate the wide crack right of Baalbek, i.e. 2 cracks right of Bug Squad, 3 cracks right of Max Factor. Proceed to curse, thrutch, and thrash up the first 3 feet of the crack proper, then come down for a rest. Repeat until 1) worked too much and in need of a beer, or 2) you succeed in getting to the 5-foot mark. If in search of beer, locate the trail back to the parking lot, open vehicle, locate cooler, and swill. If at the 5-foot mark, continue to the 6-foot mark, and repeat every foot until at the anchors. You will know when you reach the anchors because you will feel an incredible sense of relief and an overwhelming desire to vomit. I climbed this left-side in, and really, the bottom bulge is a stand-out crux; the upper, fist crack is really just maintenance climbing, but the sort of maintenance that is investment-based, i.e. you keep fighting because you do not want to repeat the lower part. Rumor has it one of the hot young Boulder Rock Club climbers did this baby recently and declared it as hard as Vogue, Tommy Caldwell's 5.14b at the Industrial Wall. Now isn't this a fun sport?

Protection

A few larger cams (4 Camalot size) for the start, and several 3.5" cams for the rest. include a few stray wireds to 3" cams. Please, please, wear high-top climbing shoes, or at least tape your left ankle- it can get pretty bloody up there if you don't.

Photos

David Bruneau
St. John
 
David Bruneau   St. John
 
My beta was to lug up a couple bottles of water and stash them in the horizontal below the bulge. Beer could be effective as well. This beta definitely enabled me to fall out of the crux many more times than I could have otherwise. Jul 8, 2016
Rob DeZonia
  5.11a
Rob DeZonia  
  5.11a
I get a little douche baggy when I drink and Mountain Project. I could've said, "One of my favorites in one of my favorite places. The Voo is humbling and magical." Apr 27, 2016
A-W
  5.10d
A-W  
  5.10d
Instead of thinking this climb is horrendesly sandbagged, you might try asking yourself why you suck. In my experience, this is good advice for Vedauwoo in general. Nov 6, 2015
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
 
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
 
So physical and hard. Gotta love The Voo. Tape everything including your ankles. Sep 20, 2015
This route is probably the one in which I've burned the most calories per vertical foot gained, and I was top-roping. Holy crap, this thing is hard. Aug 3, 2014
Rob DeZonia
  5.11a
Rob DeZonia  
  5.11a
Also, someone put a rap anchor on top of the route this week. No anchor maker needed. Jul 14, 2014
Rob DeZonia
  5.11a
Rob DeZonia  
  5.11a
WAY harder than Left Torpedo Tube! Zach's book downgrades a lot of already sandbag testpieces...including Left Torpedo Tube. (He also may have the worst case of first-ascentionitis of any other guidebook author.) I try to approach Vedauwoo routes with a sense of humor regarding the ratings; most are not even close to the Yosemite decimal system. They are some made up system. I call them Voo-ratings. At one point in time, 9+ was the hardest in the country. Now at least one of those routes is rated as hard as 12+. A route's "original" rating is fun but not always accurate or helpful, especially when mixed with a splash of ego and a dash of ignorance, and, I almost puked at the top too! Jul 14, 2014
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11a
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11a
Bring a large nut and a couple smaller pieces for the anchor (0.4, 0.75, #1). Sep 19, 2012
Sam Coffin
bozeman, mt
 
Sam Coffin   bozeman, mt
 
Definitely felt 10+/11- for the Voo...cruxy start with some enduro big hands/fists to finish...super fun!! I felt a new #5 Camalot protected the crux start nicely.... Sep 12, 2011
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
I lead this with Mark Wilford in 1976. Of course Bob Scarpelli could have done it earlier. At the time we rated it 5.10a but that was back in the day when we were doing lots of wide cracks. May 25, 2010
Mike D
Fort Collins, CO
Mike D   Fort Collins, CO
Steve I believe you've got the first ascent info wrong on this one. Although it seems like Scarpelli did the FA to all the hard OW around here- my info credits Wilford and Mammen with the first ascent. Nov 12, 2007
Handsome B. Wonderful  
  5.10d
Sorry folks, but this climb is definitely not an .11 anything OW. It was originally rated .10d and that is the way it should stay. Maxilash is more of a hand crack guarded by an OW then a pure OW. Go heavy on the 2 and 3 Camalots and go light on the big stuff. If you think this is a sandbag then go to the other side of the Nautilus and get on October Light which is a real .11a offwidth. O.L. will definitely put things into perspective. Don't be intimidated by most of the comments on this page. This is a great climb and if you know how to climb wide cracks, it will be a very enjoyable route. May 30, 2005
Just took a ride on "Hard To Believe" out at Blair on Moby Dick! High quality and BRUTAL as HELL. Recently TRIED "Crack off Fear" at Lumpy. Timed to except the fact that 10d/11a is the catch all hard grade for off width. After these experiences, 11a sounds about right for Maxilash. Sorry about the whining! Aug 13, 2004
For some reason I thought this was rated 11d, and thought it wasn't too bad for the grade. Seeing that it is actually 11a makes more sense. It seemed pretty comparable to left torpedo tube. As for zach and his ratings, his cheesy little book doesn't have a single picture of Scarpelli in it. Pretty much makes the book completely invalid in my opinion. Aug 10, 2004
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
What's interesting is that on one page, it says 10d. On another page (where there's a photo of it), it says 11a. This is a well known sandbag coupled with the fact that you're at vedauwoo, means this should come as no suprise. Don't make it right, but you shouldn't be surprised. Mar 28, 2004
Zack Whoever has just downgraded this route to 10d in his new Fat Country guidebook. Why not just call it 8- ??? What could he possibly be comparing it to? I hate to whine about grades, but I wonder if he has climbed it. Anyone would say 10d is nuts. If Spectreman still gets 11c. ML is 12 in my book. Mar 11, 2004
After seeing this climb from across the valley on the Holdout, I had to do it. I am COVERED with sctraches and bruises but did manage to send. I wore out a right shoe and was dry heaving at the top. The last 30 feet are sinker hands, but you are so wasted it feels like you are climbing for your life! A head/hand stack is the ticket for a decent rest between cruxes. It is the most physical climb I have ever done and am still wasted two days later. If this 11.a I quit!!!!!!!!!!! Aug 3, 2003
It helps to have soft shoes, especially on the right foot, when cresting the nastiest part of the squeeze/offwidth. Also, it is possible to stack your head and your left hand in the crack, if your hat size is around 7 3/4. Everyone should do this climb about once a year. May 20, 2003
This route gets my vote for best blue-collar-puker on the front range. A great recommendation for the good looking sport climber type who occasionally ventures north from Boulder. The best thing is- these types usually have a babe-in-tow and you'll have plenty of time to get to know her while her beau is projecting on the gaping nightmare above. Bon Voyage! Nov 8, 2001
I've always wanted to try this one. Now after reading the description, I want to try it even more, though I am not sure I will make that 6 foot mark. The one thing that seems like it might help is to carry at least some of the beer to the base of the climb, so you don't have to walk the few hundred feet back to the car to get it. Aug 30, 2001