Type: Trad
FA: Scarpelli? Wilford and Mammen?
Page Views: 6,733 total · 24/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Locate the wide crack right of Baalbek, i.e. 2 cracks right of Bug Squad, 3 cracks right of Max Factor. Proceed to curse, thrutch, and thrash up the first 3 feet of the crack proper, then come down for a rest. Repeat until 1) worked too much and in need of a beer, or 2) you succeed in getting to the 5-foot mark. If in search of beer, locate the trail back to the parking lot, open vehicle, locate cooler, and swill. If at the 5-foot mark, continue to the 6-foot mark, and repeat every foot until at the anchors. You will know when you reach the anchors because you will feel an incredible sense of relief and an overwhelming desire to vomit. I climbed this left-side in, and really, the bottom bulge is a stand-out crux; the upper, fist crack is really just maintenance climbing, but the sort of maintenance that is investment-based, i.e. you keep fighting because you do not want to repeat the lower part. Rumor has it one of the hot young Boulder Rock Club climbers did this baby recently and declared it as hard as Vogue, Tommy Caldwell's 5.14b at the Industrial Wall. Now isn't this a fun sport?

Protection Suggest change

A few larger cams (4 Camalot size) for the start, and several 3.5" cams for the rest. include a few stray wireds to 3" cams. Please, please, wear high-top climbing shoes, or at least tape your left ankle- it can get pretty bloody up there if you don't.