Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,579 total · 14/month
Shared By: Petsfed on Jul 9, 2003
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Just across the way from Friday the 13th is this deceiving line. From a distance, it looks like a simple off-width. Get closer, it looks like hands. Once you're in it, its awkward face moves (in the crack) for about 20 feet until you hit a finger crack. Follow said finger crack up to a ledge, then farther to rap bolts.

Protection

Stoppers and cams up to yellow camalot.

Photos

The description above describes the first pitch only, which I'd put in the 5.8 range (a fun lead for those who aren't willing to give Friday the 13th a go). Deception is best done by linking the 2 pitches to the top. The 5.9 comes in a lieback corner just above the rap rings mentioned above. The lieback eventually opens to a short squeeze chimney. Most people will want a #4 camalot for this part.

We weren't able to easily reach the Middle Parallel Space or War Zone anchors from the top of this pitch. To desced, we scrambled over to the anchors on the other side of the formation at the top of Nemo. Jul 11, 2003
Fun route that packs a nice variety of climbing, harder than it looks (although most of it is 5.7/5.8). The top-out to get to the rap anchors is kind of spooky for moderate leaders (a couple of stout 5.8 slab moves with no pro and a potentially nasty fall). Be sure to go straight up to the very top of the formation and set up an anchor in a small crack to belay the second up this short section (avoids a potential pendulum). Oct 20, 2003
Not too bad to link up the two pitches into one, extending the bolt anchor sling genrously. In addition to the #4 Camalot where the the second pitch goes wide, I placed a #4.5 Camalot to protect the final wide section. Jul 3, 2007
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
We did this on our first trip The Voo in July 2013.

For a quick end-of-day wrap up after Middle Parallel Space, doing P1 and lowering off is a great option. If you have larger hands-feet, the jams are locker and the gear options are plentiful.

If you do want to continue with P2, it will link with a 60m rope with P1 easily given good slingage, but you will increase your outing time significantly. P2 is a fun, steep jaunt with a committing offwidth finish, but I'm not sure it warrants the subsequent descent adventure.

As with the earlier comment, the supposed 5.8 unprotectable face climb after P2 to the summit anchors looked really sketchy to us with obvious groundfall potential, so we avoided this.

To get off the formation, from the top of P2 we gently downclimbed into the slot across from the aforementioned "5.8" face, and then headed up-and-left to the opposite side of the overall formation. After a low 5th class downclimb move there, we found rap anchors on the right that lowered off us near the Nemo climb with one 60m rope. Jul 18, 2013
I was always under the impression that the first pitch of this was the Thunderbolt route, and that Deception was the scary face climb to the left that goes on small wires. I also thought that the first pitch was only 5.6 or so and that the second pitch was 5.11, the one that goes up around the bulge. Is there a 5.11 that goes up around there somewhere? Sep 2, 2016