Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches
FA: Doug Cairns, 1976
Page Views: 14,420 total · 79/month
Shared By: Stephen Marsh on Oct 14, 2005
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch is one of the best moderates in the area, and for 5.10 climbers the second pitch should not be missed. This was one of my first climbs while learning trad and is a great introduction to the Voo. The easiest approach is to walk the entire length of the east side of Nautilus, past Friday the 13th. Walk around the north end, and then head back in the direction of the parking lot. Just past MaxiLash is a large roof with a dihedral leading to it.

P1 (5.8, 70') - climb the shelves below a left-facing dihedral, which goes to a right-facing dihedral as you turn the corner. The first pitch is a popular hand crack which starts off small and gets bigger as you go. End underneath the roof at the chain anchor.

P2 (10d, 80') - the start of this traverse lures you in, but the reason this is 10d lies just around the corner. The wall drops away, and the crack turns to flaring jams and slopers. Trying to place gear on this section is awkward to say the least (you might want to take off that helmet!). Pull over the bulge at the lip and belay at the anchors.

Protection

#0.5 - 3.5 Camalots, TCUs can be helpful.

Photos