Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Doug Cairns, 1976
Page Views: 10,757 total · 67/month
Shared By: Stephen Marsh on Oct 14, 2005
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The first pitch is one of the best moderates in the area, and for 5.10 climbers the second pitch should not be missed. This was one of my first climbs while learning trad and is a great introduction to the Voo. The easiest approach is to walk the entire length of the east side of Nautilus, past Friday the 13th. Walk around the north end, and then head back in the direction of the parking lot. Just past MaxiLash is a large roof with a dihedral leading to it.

P1 (5.8, 70') - climb the shelves below a left-facing dihedral, which goes to a right-facing dihedral as you turn the corner. The first pitch is a popular hand crack which starts off small and gets bigger as you go. End underneath the roof at the chain anchor.

P2 (10d, 80') - the start of this traverse lures you in, but the reason this is 10d lies just around the corner. The wall drops away, and the crack turns to flaring jams and slopers. Trying to place gear on this section is awkward to say the least (you might want to take off that helmet!). Pull over the bulge at the lip and belay at the anchors.

Protection

#0.5 - 3.5 Camalots, TCUs can be helpful.
Stephen Marsh
Thornton, CO
  5.10d
Stephen Marsh   Thornton, CO
  5.10d
Just some clarification, pitch 2 is not 80' long, it's 80' from the anchors to the ground. Oct 18, 2005
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Vedauwoo Mega Classic, especially pitch one. I actually recommend keeping the helmet ON for p.2, as (depending on one's height) using opposing forces 'tween the feet and the roof (thru yer head!) can be a real help in moving the hands and placing pro... Oct 24, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
You should consider ditching the helmet on P2. It is very difficult to see your gear placements, since they are in the back of the flare. Jun 25, 2007
David Bayendor
Denver, CO
David Bayendor   Denver, CO
I did the 1st pitch of this route with Craig Luebben, inventor of the Big Bro and Vedauwoo climbing hardman. Spent three days in a Vedauwoo clinic with Craig. This is a great pitch to work hand and fist jams on. I recommend taping, the insides of these cracks are pretty rough.

At this point the second pitch is a beyond me, but definitely worth coming back for. Jun 29, 2009
mtoensing
Boulder
  5.10d
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.10d
The second pitch is BURLY. Nov 5, 2010
Sam Stephens  
 
Did pitch one, nothing but awesome. Aug 22, 2011
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10d
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10d
The nut on the right bolt was loose when I climbed this on Labor Day, 2012. I finger tightened it, but a wrench would do a better job.

The hangers are older style, smaller SMC hangers. Hard to clip more than one carabiner. Sep 11, 2012
Evan Martin
Laramie, WY
  5.10d
Evan Martin   Laramie, WY
  5.10d
Pitch two is definitely worth it. Linking it with pitch 1 is fine if you sling your peices and don't place an excessive amount of gear on pitch 1. This also makes a potential fall softer than it would be otherwise. Used a few C3s and x4s on the 2nd pitch, which was perfect! Jun 21, 2014
Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
 
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
 
If you fancy yourself as a roof crack technician, you'll love pitch 2. This was one of the only 10+ pitches we climbed that felt soft. Straightforward, solid gear (#1 C3 to #1 C4). Great climb, pitch one of Beefeater would be a great warm-up for P2 of Nemo. Jun 24, 2014
cstebbins024
Laramie, WY
 
cstebbins024   Laramie, WY
 
New bolts for pitch one. Aug 9, 2014
Dom R
Bend, OR
Dom R   Bend, OR
Only did the first pitch. Super fun corner climbing, definitely a great pitch in and of itself. The crux right before you turn onto the slabbier section is pretty polished inside the crack. My partner greased out of it there. Feb 14, 2015
Parker Gray
Fort Collins
Parker Gray   Fort Collins
Left a micro nut almost near the base of this thing in a lil' crack. If anyone snags it and returns it, I'll gladly buy you a beer : ) 303-748-9961 Apr 23, 2018