Type: Trad, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,589 total · 14/month
Shared By: Petsfed on Jun 5, 2003
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


74 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Just to the left of Easy Jam, climb and obvious right leaning crack with a little of everything. Start with awkward off-width/tips crack moves (weird huh?) into hand and fist to the top. Be kind, leave a sling of your own (and cut off some old ones) before rapping from the anchors.

Protection

Standard Vedauwoo rack. Up to #4 Camalot, and slings for the cold shuts at the top.

Photos

From the ground, it looks as if this route may finish with a second pitch. So, I clipped the sling anchors, and continued leading up the crack above it to the roof. I pulled out of the roof to find... a dark, shallow water streak that looked like a crack from the ground. I ended up having to downclimb 15 feet or so of good 5.9 handcrack. Honestly, its a shame the anchors aren't 15 feet higher, that crack section is better than the rest of the climb. Jan 22, 2004
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Worthwhile. Instead of rapping from the slings at the top of the crack, better to do the horizontal traverse right to a great gear belay. Jul 14, 2005
slim

  5.9+
slim    
  5.9+
Not sure what the intermediate, fairy, rap station is about. Everybody knows that you didn't do the route unless you do the crawl-off. Jun 26, 2007
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Definitely worth doing. The part where the thinner sliver of rock creates two cracks for jammming is neat. Aug 20, 2007
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
Don't clip the slings and lower. Not sure why they are there and can the slings be removed? Do the next pitch but watch for rope drag. Jun 6, 2010
ross.mon
Montana
ross.mon   Montana
Good, awkward fun! Jul 3, 2010
I wasn't sure how to finish this climb. I passed the suspect middle anchor, climbed the sweet handcrack, and then groveled/crawled right for a few feet. Then I sat (actually layed) there for about 10 minutes trying to figure out where to go. There's a shallow dihedral that looks like it has no protection straight up, or some intimidating no-feet, hand jamming that continues right. As I was out of hand-sized gear, I ultimately committed to the dihedral (which actually protects quite nicely with RPs). Does anyone know which way is the proper finish? Jun 14, 2011
slim

  5.9+
slim    
  5.9+
Continue with the good hand jamming with bad feet to the right, until you do an awkward pull up over a flake sort of thing, and belay in a hole of sorts (if I remember correctly). Jun 14, 2011
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
Crawl right all the way! Jul 7, 2013
John L
Fort Collins, CO
 
John L   Fort Collins, CO
 
There is a bolted anchor at the end of the first pitch on this climb. Not sure about the 2nd pitch. Aug 2, 2016