All Locations > Wyoming > Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Nautilus

Mother 1

Name: Mother 1
Rating: 3.4

5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Nautilus

L › R R › L A › Z

	30 is the New 20 T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	[Redacted] T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
	Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C
	Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+
	Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Cupcake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b V1 5
	Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Deterioration / Unknown V1+ 5
	Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hand Jam Traverse aka V1 Traverse V1 5
	Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Heel to Toe V4- 6B
	Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hurley-Fowler T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	In The Dark T V2-3 5+
	In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Infant Son T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lucky You T V6 7A
	Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+
	Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	New Mutant T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Octagon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Practice Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Pretty S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Republic, The V10 7C+
	Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Right Winger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4
	Shotgun Willy V6 7A
	Slab and Grab V4 6B
	Slab Stealer T V4 6B
	Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Soak'em In Cider V5 6C
	Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Sun Up To Sundown V6 7A
	Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tempest V9 7C
	Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5
	Unknown Mantle V2 5+
	Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A
	Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+
	Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type:	Trad
FA:	Not sure
Page Views:	23,827 total · 89/month
Shared By:	Joe Keyser on Jul 21, 2001
Admins:	Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form Details

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Description

This was described in the guide book as a classic route...deservedly so IMO! The approach to the base of the crack is hidden. Essentially, there is a huge pile of boulders and flakes around the base of the climb. So, if you walk up in front of this, and take a tunnel into a cave on the left, you end up in a cave with a hole coming out that would get you there. Instead of coming out of that hole, go all the way to the VERY back of the cave, look down to the right, and you will find a hidden easy chimney that puts you right at the base.

In any case, get to the bottom of the nice looking crack (one crack to the right from a huge chimney, Baldwin's Chimney, 5.4, that splits the whole face, and ends up at a chockstone on the left). The first half of the pitch is wide for about 50 feet. Wedge yourself into the thing, and heel toe your way up. I had my left side in, so, maybe rack up mostly on the right. After about halfway, the crack becomes an excellent, and steep handcrack until it peters out, and ends on a flat section. From the flat section, you go left to belay at the chockstone. You will have to jump over Baldwin's Chimney to get to the chockstone. Or, if nobody is watching, just downclimb, and cruise over to it...:) The belay at the chockstone can be made with slings, and/or your lead rope. And you could back it up with a large cam, but, with the same 100 million ton boulder.

To get off the route, you continue up the Parabolic Slab, (5.2). I'm reasonably sure you could also do this in the same pitch as Mother #1, and skip the chockstone belay. Either way, this continues up, and slightly right from the end of the Mother #1 crack for about 30 feet. It's a low-angled slab with crystals. No pro, but, no worries (maybe a little interesting in the rain). You can do a really fun, overhanging rappel off the back side of the slab (this is the same rappel that is shown on the back of the guidebook). This rappel takes you to a walk off that continues by sort of spiraling back down the crag clockwise.

You can also rap off the top of Father #1 which is the 5.11 finger crack to the right on Mother #1.

After we did this route, a geology student informed us that the rock is well over 2 billion years old, and some of the oldest rock they know of...pretty cool beta anyways!

Protection

This is a fairly long (maybe 110 feet??), fairly wide crack that ends up as a hand crack. I don't think I placed a single stopper, but a couple mid-big cams will do the job. It was nice to have at least a #4 cam. Bring long pants and tape gloves!!!

Per matt severini: there are now anchors directly on top of the crack that were placed in 2014.