Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 847 total · 5/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Oct 20, 2003
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This nasty little booger of a crack is quite attractive looking, but has the personality of an axe murderer. While the multitudes are queued up for "Lower Progressive" and "Handjacker", this beauty doesn't show a touch of chalk. Contrary to the description in the "Heel and Toe" guide, it bears no sign of bats or excrement. Rather, it comes across as a tasty overhanging handcrack in the back of a flare on the right end of the ledge below "Progressive".

This is a crack that bites back. Don't even think of attempting it without taping all exposed flesh, wearing a long-sleeve shirt, and pulling on the kevlar chainsaw trousers. An awkward start quickly turns into a major struggle not to get spit out. Jamming straight on is not the solution as the hands recede into the back of the flare while the shoulders get wedged on the outside. If you make it more than three moves you'll be fighting into an overhanging squeeze lined with crystals bigger and sharper than shark's teeth. Pulling out of the top of the flare isn't so bad, but by then you'll be sucking wind and ready for a nap.

Take the rating with a grain of salt (it's straight out of the book, so it must be correct, right?) Don't forget the antibiotic ointment and a pack full of field dressings. You'll be proud of the scars when your spouse/parents/grandkids ask "What happened to you?"

It is easy to scramble around to set up a toprope if you don't feel like leading. While you're in the area, have a look at "Caesar", directly overhead. If "Bat Heaven" doesn't slow you down, "Caesar" might.

Protection

Cams to 2.5"

Photos

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Andy Johnson  
 
I really like this line. I had no idea what it was when I got on it. It is short, but rest assured, what it lacks in length, it makes up in awkwardness. Much to my surprise, I found it to be a very worthy route. The crux comes fast, but it remains sustained. The pro is really tough to place but really good when you get it. Mar 27, 2004