Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: TR: Kevin & Barbara Bein, Lead: Steve Petro
Page Views: 5,217 total · 34/month
Shared By: JNE on Apr 9, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a very stiff and beautiful line, accentuated by the lovely lichen covered water streaks on either side. It is quite overhanging with two cruxes, hardest right off the ground, then another after the handjam pods. This is a groovy climb, the only standout line on the boulder it resides on. It shuts most everyone down. Do it!

Location

On the biggest boulder down and to the left from Finally, which is the most obvious line facing the western parking lot for The Nautilus. On this boulder, it's on the side facing The Nautilus.

Protection

Good, though it looks bleak in spots. Green to red Aliens, can get a #3 Camalot in the flare up top. Bolts up top, pull the lip!

Photos

John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
I'm not positive... but I think this route was originally done by Todd Skinner. Apr 10, 2006
JNE
  5.12
JNE  
  5.12
That is possible John, but talking with locals it can be credited to one of the following: Steve Petro, Todd Skinner, Paul Piana. I don't imagine Paul Piana, given his propensity to censor names put in his guide books on climbs up around Lander, would have named it 'Harder Than Your Husband', but then again original names don't always catch on. Always the topic of local debate, many of the hard climbs from the eighties and early nineties have been credited to various sources at various times. Thus I left it "?". In either case a beautiful line that sees WAY more failures than successes. Apr 10, 2006
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Orenzak's book says Piana in 1983. Don't know for certain though. At this point I can't even see the moves to get off the ground. Apr 10, 2006
JNE
  5.12
JNE  
  5.12
Brian, if you look carefully there was a big crystal about the size of your thumb that used to reside up a little on the left side of the crack. Bob Scarpelli says this is a lot harder now that that crystal is gone, and he did it both with and without the crystal. Whoever said Bob couldn't climb thin cracks! I can't imagine how hard this thing must be for him given the size of his meathooks, an especially impressive feat. Apr 10, 2006
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I'm not saying the moves aren't there, I mean the necessary moves to do it in its present condition in fact transcend my understanding of rock climbing. It mind boggling, to me, that various Vedauwoo regulars have done it free, on lead no less. I can climb stand and deliver, drop a toprope over this and hang there looking stupid, but I absolutely cannot climb it. Apr 27, 2006
JNE
  5.12
JNE  
  5.12
I believe any controversy over who did the FA is brought up because Paul apparently couldn't lead it clean and while Paul was still trying for the FA Steve Petro did the first actual redpoint of the route with all gear on lead. Jun 7, 2008
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
The boulder problem off the ground is at least V7. You might notice a ball and chain attached to your ankles if you are expecting 5.12. Oct 26, 2018