Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson, John Mattson, 1983
Page Views: 1,139 total · 8/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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21 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route starts with some moderate offwidth and a strenuous move over a bulge to get into a large flaring crack. From the ground, this large flare is quite deceiving as it looks like you'll be jamming and stemming up it, but, in actuality, this is a flaring chimney with the crux coming at the top of flare where the wall gets steeper and the flare opens up wider. The route finishes with some awkward hand and fist crack climbing over a right-leaning bulge.

Location

This route is located on the northwest face of the Nautilus in a large, right-facing corner to the right of Captain Nemo. There are actually four different route in this corner, and this is the third crack from the left Rap off the Captain Nemo anchors to get down.

Protection

Mostly small pro to a #2 Camalot and a #3 and a #3.5 Camalot for the top.

Photos

Mike Munger
Boulder, Colorado
 
Mike Munger   Boulder, Colorado
 
I thought this was a good route. It's not what you think when you look at it from the ground, but it yields to technique and finesse without being too strenuous. Aug 14, 2007
A-W
  5.10
A-W  
  5.10
A worthwhile line. A good one to do at the end of the day when your arms are too pumped to climb anything else. Medium to small wires work best for the upper half. Nov 9, 2015
Carolyn
Boulder, CO
5.11a
Carolyn   Boulder, CO
5.11a
10b is a total sandbag rating, even by the Voo's standards. It starts tricky and awkward then transitions to really insecure. Great line with variety. Jun 8, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.10d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.10d
I originally rated this route 5.10d. I can fully understand how you think this route is .11a, Carolyn. At first I was thinking it was that hard. It is a sandbag at .10b/c. May 20, 2017
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10c
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10c
Excellent description, I was totally fooled expecting easy stemming and was surprised by awesome flared chimney. Very worthy line indeed. I'd agree with the original grade as well. Aug 7, 2017