Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Doug Cairns with Diana McWilliams belaying, 1970s, Bill Roberts?
Page Views: 16,133 total · 58/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 2, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Located about 50 feet left of Stinkzig, this line goes through the prominent, overhanging slot/stem box. Due to the enormous ledge between ground and the slot, it is best to do this climb as 2 short pitches though the full climb is probably only 100 feet. The guide calls this one of the best pitches of 5.10 at Vedauwoo. It is strenuous, technical, awkward, and can be made much more difficult if you don't work the back wall of the slot. I found it difficult compared to similarly graded mid-10s at Vedauwoo and Lumpy. Start in the flaring hand crack below the slot.

Pitch 1: Jam the strenuous 5.8 crack 20 feet to the ledge.

Pitch 2: Jam the overhanging crack and stem the slot (crux) on super-polished feet up and out to a 5.7ish OW finish. Belay and enjoy watching the 2nd struggle. If the 2nd isn't solid, consider placing more pro to protect the big swing out of the slot. My 2nd had difficulty getting back on after falling.

Protection Suggest change

A single set of nuts and cams should suffice. Bring a #4 Camalot to protect the final OW moves. Some extra hand sized pieces might help for setting up an anchor on top.

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