Flying Buttress [Edit]
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 90 votes
Routes in Nautilus
A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+ | |
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C | |
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R | |
Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+ | |
Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Cupcake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5 | |
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Deterioration V1 5 | |
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R | |
H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
In The Dark T V5 6C | |
In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lucky You T V6 7A | |
Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+ | |
Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
New Mutant T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Octagon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Outrider S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Pretty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Republic, The V10 7C+ | |
Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4 | |
Shotgun Willy V5 6C | |
Sitdown Seam V3 6A | |
Slab Stealer T V4 6B | |
Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Soak'em In Cider V5 6C | |
Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R | |
Sun Up To Sundown V6-7 7A+ | |
TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Tempest V9 7C | |
Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Twinkle Toes V2 5+ | |
Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5 | |
Unknown Mantle V2 5+ | |
Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A | |
Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+ | |
Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Unsorted Routes: |
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Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
FA: | Doug Cairns with Diana McWilliams belaying, 1970s, Bill Roberts? |
Page Views: | 10,775 total · 53/month |
Shared By: | Joe Collins on Sep 2, 2001 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki |
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Details
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Description [Edit]
Located about 50 feet left of Stinkzig, this line goes through the prominent, overhanging slot/stem box. Due to the enormous ledge between ground and the slot, it is best to do this climb as 2 short pitches though the full climb is probably only 100 feet. The guide calls this one of the best pitches of 5.10 at Vedauwoo. It is strenuous, technical, awkward, and can be made much more difficult if you don't work the back wall of the slot. I found it difficult compared to similarly graded mid-10s at Vedauwoo and Lumpy. Start in the flaring hand crack below the slot.
Pitch 1: Jam the strenuous 5.8 crack 20 feet to the ledge.
Pitch 2: Jam the overhanging crack and stem the slot (crux) on super-polished feet up and out to a 5.7ish OW finish. Belay and enjoy watching the 2nd struggle. If the 2nd isn't solid, consider placing more pro to protect the big swing out of the slot. My 2nd had difficulty getting back on after falling.
Pitch 1: Jam the strenuous 5.8 crack 20 feet to the ledge.
Pitch 2: Jam the overhanging crack and stem the slot (crux) on super-polished feet up and out to a 5.7ish OW finish. Belay and enjoy watching the 2nd struggle. If the 2nd isn't solid, consider placing more pro to protect the big swing out of the slot. My 2nd had difficulty getting back on after falling.
Protection [Edit]
A single set of nuts and cams should suffice. Bring a #4 Camalot to protect the final OW moves. Some extra hand sized pieces might help for setting up an anchor on top.
Asheville, NC
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Farmington, nc
My old partner Bill Roberts suggested he might have led this first, for what it's worth. Who knows? I do know he stuck me on it, long ago (mid-1980s?), and I just flailed.... Dec 8, 2013
Colorado Springs