Type: Trad, Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: Justin Edl, 2007
Page Views: 4,449 total · 27/month
Shared By: JNE on May 19, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Description

This is a burly little roof crack. Start with a foot in the first pod, which is about a foot from where the crack starts as a hairline seam, and your hands in the two first knuckle/tips locks that are a few feet further out and about six inches apart. If you start in the flared hands, you are starting too far out. Climb through some bad flared hands and when you can, make a desperate crack switch to the right. After you are established in the second crack, stem out to the boulder behind and to your left, and top out on that boulder, or for full value top out the crack past an abondoned rodent nest that is kind of in the way. The second topout is quite highball, involving a 5.10 or so crack to an easy but delicate mantle on a shelf a good twenty feet up. After mantling the shelf, traverse right and topout the boulder. This problem has cool subtle movement and is pretty much a pure jamming crack. The name was inspired by how hard you have to squeeze on the bad flared hands.

Here is an old video of the problem which was actually one of the first "uncut" videos that got that whole thing started:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx4MlFYmyeY&t=2m03s.

Location

This is located on the huge boulder that is between The Cupcake and Friday The Thirteenth. The best way to access the problem is through the cave which is more or less on the east side of the boulder.

Protection

A pad or two.

Photos