Type: Trad, Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Justin Edl, 2007
Page Views: 3,888 total · 27/month
Shared By: JNE on May 19, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a burly little roof crack. Start with a foot in the first pod, which is about a foot from where the crack starts as a hairline seam, and your hands in the two first knuckle/tips locks that are a few feet further out and about six inches apart. If you start in the flared hands, you are starting too far out. Climb through some bad flared hands and when you can, make a desperate crack switch to the right. After you are established in the second crack, stem out to the boulder behind and to your left, and top out on that boulder, or for full value top out the crack past an abondoned rodent nest that is kind of in the way. The second topout is quite highball, involving a 5.10 or so crack to an easy but delicate mantle on a shelf a good twenty feet up. After mantling the shelf, traverse right and topout the boulder. This problem has cool subtle movement and is pretty much a pure jamming crack. The name was inspired by how hard you have to squeeze on the bad flared hands.

Location

This is located on the huge boulder that is between The Cupcake and Friday The Thirteenth. The best way to access the problem is through the cave which is more or less on the east side of the boulder.

Protection

A pad or two.

Photos

Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I was just walking around the other day and decided to go see what this thing looks like. At first, I was like "this can't be 5.13" and then I looked up. That'd do it. Impressive send Justin. Jun 5, 2007
molony
 
molony  
 
12 tries, the furthest I got was like 8 inches off the ground. Well done Justin, well done. Jul 30, 2008
JNE
  V11
JNE  
  V11
Molony, good on you for giving it a whirl! I wish more people would do that! I would recommend getting on The Sparkling Touch and The Process of Belief. Those were the precursors to this. Jul 30, 2008
molony
 
molony  
 
Sparkling Touch is for sure on my to do list. And just to clarify, is it listed in the guide as the Walk in the Park project? And where is the Process of Belief? Aug 1, 2008
JNE
  V11
JNE  
  V11
AFAIK, The Sparkling Touch never made it into the guide in any form despite being GPSd well before it went to print. The Process of Belief is right off the side of the road a little before the main crow creek crossing (the second one if you are coming from I-80). I should get some mileages for that one. It's the obvious wall that faces the road with a couple of promising looking cracks, which become less promising the closer you get. I'm psyched your interested in these problems molony! If you or anyone wants the beta spray, shoot me a message or call me up. I would be glad to go back out to any of these. Aug 1, 2008
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
13+ hands? Hell yeah! I wish I was around longer to put some real work into this thing. Do you cross off the start with you left hand, or do you bump with your right into the first flared hand? Aug 30, 2008
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
Yes, a joke- but apart from the starting holds it seemed as if the meat of this rig was flared hands. Anyways, this is an amazing line, an I'd be phsyced to work it more. Sep 1, 2008
JNE
  V11
JNE  
  V11
I start with a thin but bomber right finger lock and a left foot in the pod and cross left into the flared hands. I'm glad you liked the line m-earle. Sep 14, 2008
Patrick Kingsbury
Anthem, AZ
Patrick Kingsbury   Anthem, AZ
Vedajuicer, WY.

youtube.com/watch?v=rCFMDLa… Jun 8, 2011
JNE
  V11
JNE  
  V11
Lol, Pat. I think I lived under this rock three or four days a week from mid Nov. to the end of Dec. of one year, and again from late March until some time in May the following spring. I lived there for some days before that, and have been back for numerous subsequent visits. I obviously think highly of this particular rock. :) Jun 8, 2011
I wonder how long it will take the second ascentionist to put it together. Probably a long while. Jun 20, 2011
It's definitely hard for the grade. Although it's a bit close to the ground and really easy to dab, it's a very good crack problem. Jul 6, 2011
JNE
  V11
JNE  
  V11
A note about the start that came up recently: the crack just kind of grows out of the rock (and grows back in at the end :)), so there is not really a visually obvious start. Nonetheless, the starting holds for both the hands and feet are specifically defined. The starting finger lock (first knuckle, middle finger, right hand lock) should be obvious and full of chalk, before the obvious sequence of really bad, flared hands. The starting foot is the left foot in the very first pod in the crack, not the other obvious pod with a years old tick on it about a foot before the starting lock. Believe it or not, where you start with your foot greatly affects the next five moves, which are the crux. Yes this thing is low-ball, but no it is not a dab problem, unless you can't really pull into the crack, in which case you probably can't climb the thing. It's really fun and hard, and a great little workout, especially adding it to doing routes in the area as it's easily done padless ;).

Old scrappy video of the first ascent, Red Snapper thrown in as well*: youtube.com/watch?v=kx4MlFY…

  • Smoking is BAD, mmmk? Seriously.
Aug 15, 2014
Corey Flynn
USA
 
Corey Flynn   USA
 
Holy smokes, this thing is hard, real tough to get the foot high enough on the invert to make room to reach the right hand finger lock, and the start....well that is some real Jedi shit. Respect. Oct 29, 2018
Please refrain from using 2' tick marks or simply brush them off when you are done climbing the problem for the day. It's ugly and lazy. Nov 5, 2018
Corey Flynn
USA
 
Corey Flynn   USA
 
I don’t remember making any ticks on this thing, but you have to go out of your way to see them and the boulder problem, so not sure that they would be much of an eyesore. Dec 9, 2018
...or just a eyesore for anyone climbing it. Dec 12, 2018