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Routes in Nautilus

A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+
Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cupcake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In The Dark T V5 6C
In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky You T V6 7A
Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+
Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
New Mutant T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Octagon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pretty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Republic, The V10 7C+
Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Shotgun Willy V5 6C
Sitdown Seam V3 6A
Slab Stealer T V4 6B
Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soak'em In Cider V5 6C
Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sun Up To Sundown V6-7 7A+
TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempest V9 7C
Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twinkle Toes V2 5+
Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5
Unknown Mantle V2 5+
Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A
Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+
Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Justin Edl, 2007
Page Views: 3,646 total, 28/month
Shared By: JNE on May 19, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a burly little roof crack. Start with a foot in the first pod, which is about a foot from where the crack starts as a hairline seam, and your hands in the two first knuckle/tips locks that are a few feet further out and about six inches apart. If you start in the flared hands, you are starting too far out. Climb through some bad flared hands and when you can, make a desperate crack switch to the right. After you are established in the second crack, stem out to the boulder behind and to your left, and top out on that boulder, or for full value top out the crack past an abondoned rodent nest that is kind of in the way. The second topout is quite highball, involving a 5.10 or so crack to an easy but delicate mantle on a shelf a good twenty feet up. After mantling the shelf, traverse right and topout the boulder. This problem has cool subtle movement and is pretty much a pure jamming crack. The name was inspired by how hard you have to squeeze on the bad flared hands.

Location

This is located on the huge boulder that is between The Cupcake and Friday The Thirteenth. The best way to access the problem is through the cave which is more or less on the east side of the boulder.

Protection

A pad or two.

Photos

JNE
 
JNE  
 
A note about the start that came up recently: the crack just kind of grows out of the rock (and grows back in at the end :)), so there is not really a visually obvious start. Nonetheless, the starting holds for both the hands and feet are specifically defined. The starting finger lock (first knuckle, middle finger, right hand lock) should be obvious and full of chalk, before the obvious sequence of really bad, flared hands. The starting foot is the left foot in the very first pod in the crack, not the other obvious pod with a years old tick on it about a foot before the starting lock. Believe it or not, where you start with your foot greatly affects the next five moves, which are the crux. Yes this thing is low-ball, but no it is not a dab problem, unless you can't really pull into the crack, in which case you probably can't climb the thing. It's really fun and hard, and a great little workout, especially adding it to doing routes in the area as it's easily done padless ;).

Old scrappy video of the first ascent, Red Snapper thrown in as well*: youtube.com/watch?v=kx4MlFY…

  • Smoking is BAD, mmmk? Seriously.
Aug 15, 2014
Peewee  
It's definitely hard for the grade. Although it's a bit close to the ground and really easy to dab, it's a very good crack problem. Jul 6, 2011
I wonder how long it will take the second ascentionist to put it together. Probably a long while. Jun 20, 2011
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Lol, Pat. I think I lived under this rock three or four days a week from mid Nov. to the end of Dec. of one year, and again from late March until some time in May the following spring. I lived there for some days before that, and have been back for numerous subsequent visits. I obviously think highly of this particular rock. :) Jun 8, 2011
Vedajuicer, WY.

youtube.com/watch?v=rCFMDLa… Jun 8, 2011
JNE
 
JNE  
 
I start with a thin but bomber right finger lock and a left foot in the pod and cross left into the flared hands. I'm glad you liked the line m-earle. Sep 14, 2008
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
Yes, a joke- but apart from the starting holds it seemed as if the meat of this rig was flared hands. Anyways, this is an amazing line, an I'd be phsyced to work it more. Sep 1, 2008
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
13+ hands? Hell yeah! I wish I was around longer to put some real work into this thing. Do you cross off the start with you left hand, or do you bump with your right into the first flared hand? Aug 30, 2008
JNE
 
JNE  
 
AFAIK, The Sparkling Touch never made it into the guide in any form despite being GPSd well before it went to print. The Process of Belief is right off the side of the road a little before the main crow creek crossing (the second one if you are coming from I-80). I should get some mileages for that one. It's the obvious wall that faces the road with a couple of promising looking cracks, which become less promising the closer you get. I'm psyched your interested in these problems molony! If you or anyone wants the beta spray, shoot me a message or call me up. I would be glad to go back out to any of these. Aug 1, 2008
molony
 
molony  
 
Sparkling Touch is for sure on my to do list. And just to clarify, is it listed in the guide as the Walk in the Park project? And where is the Process of Belief? Aug 1, 2008
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Molony, good on you for giving it a whirl! I wish more people would do that! I would recommend getting on The Sparkling Touch and The Process of Belief. Those were the precursors to this. Jul 30, 2008
molony
 
molony  
 
12 tries, the furthest I got was like 8 inches off the ground. Well done Justin, well done. Jul 30, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I was just walking around the other day and decided to go see what this thing looks like. At first, I was like "this can't be 5.13" and then I looked up. That'd do it. Impressive send Justin. Jun 5, 2007