Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 4,580 total · 41/month
Shared By: Robert Joyce on Mar 9, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This thing is mean...VERY MEAN. If you're not very comfortable or don't enjoy flaring cracks, then keep going. This is one of the most flaring hard cracks I can think of in Vedauwoo, and it's awesome. Start with some easier and straightforward but still burly moves that make you think "Hey, this might not be that bad" and continue into thought provoking, crystal dancing and butthole clinching climbing that leads to a heartbreaking, mega-flare ending.

Actually, it's very fun and all in all very safe. The first half of the route protects very well where you need it, and the second half is a little tricky but in no way warrants a PG grade. If you're on this side of the Nautilus and looking for a good technical challenge, this is it.

Location Suggest change

Start 20 feet right of Ghost Dance.

Protection Suggest change

Bring your offset micro stoppers and small offset cams. Otherwise it's mainly finger and thin hand size pieces. Figuring out the protection is half the battle.