Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 2,479 total · 54/month
Shared By: honeyjacket on Mar 9, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This thing is mean...VERY MEAN. If you're not very comfortable or don't enjoy flaring cracks, then keep going. This is one of the most flaring hard cracks I can think of in Vedauwoo, and it's awesome. Start with some easier and straightforward but still burly moves that make you think "Hey, this might not be that bad" and continue into thought provoking, crystal dancing and butthole clinching climbing that leads to a heartbreaking, mega-flare ending.

Actually, it's very fun and all in all very safe. The first half of the route protects very well where you need it, and the second half is a little tricky but in no way warrants a PG grade. If you're on this side of the Nautilus and looking for a good technical challenge, this is it.

Location

Start 20 feet right of Ghost Dance.

Protection

Bring your offset micro stoppers and small offset cams. Otherwise it's mainly finger and thin hand size pieces. Figuring out the protection is half the battle.

Photos

honeyjacket
  5.12c
honeyjacket  
  5.12c
As of March 2015, the second half of this climb is mostly fixed (none of which was my doing) with microstoppers. They are more or less welded in there, and I have no idea how old they are, but I have fallen on all of them. You can get good alternative gear around it if you choose to do so. Mar 9, 2015
Corey Flynn
USA
  5.12+
Corey Flynn   USA
  5.12+
There are only two fixed stoppers on route at the moment. One medium-sized in the middle that can be backed up with a BD 0.5 and then a small BD #3 stopper up high to get you to the chains. I doubt you will have the juice to back up the high stopper/there is not much to get, but it is a good piece and has been replaced since last fall. One of the best and a real fight the whole way. Oct 29, 2018