Type: Trad
FA: P1 - unknown? P2 - Steve Matous & Doug Cairns, 1975
Page Views: 7,026 total · 26/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Aug 30, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

The Grand Traverse is a classic 5.10 to the right of the Torpedo Tubes. The first pitch is very popular in itself, and many (most?) people chose to do this pitch and leave the second pitch for another day.

Climb the nice crack system right of the Right Tube and Gravity's Rainbow, good (hard) 5.9 or easy 5.10. The crack protects well, nice hand jams and stemming, with one distinct crux-like section; the rest is just the usually pump fluff. At the roof there is now a 2-bolt anchor, but to continue skip this and traverse way right (the "Grand Traverse") on slopey holds with decent gear (large TCUs to 2" cams, roughly) to a stance below a bulging fist crack at new bolts on the under side of the bulge.

From here you can lower off with a single (60m) rope, and belay your second sitting on the beer cooler that Erik brought to the crag, and later toprope Max Factor into submission, OR, belay and prepare for pitch 2.

P2 grunts up the wide fist crack (crucial crystal on left wall for foot) through the bulge and above to the top of the crag (5.10+ or so, but a short crux). Wander due S over boulders to the top of the crag above Middle Parallel Space to rap off.

Protection Suggest change

Gear up to a 3 (or 4) inch cam for pitch one; include doubles in the large wireds to 2" range. Pitch 2 requires a slightly larger cam or two (4 Camalot). One rope off the raps on the other side of the formation.