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Routes in Nautilus

A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+
Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cupcake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In The Dark T V5 6C
In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky You T V6 7A
Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+
Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
New Mutant T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Octagon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pretty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Republic, The V10 7C+
Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Shotgun Willy V5 6C
Sitdown Seam V3 6A
Slab Stealer T V4 6B
Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soak'em In Cider V5 6C
Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sun Up To Sundown V6-7 7A+
TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempest V9 7C
Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twinkle Toes V2 5+
Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5
Unknown Mantle V2 5+
Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A
Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+
Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Adolescent Boy
Page Views: 4,443 total, 22/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Located left of Lower Progressive, this is a stiff little piece of offwidth climbing to contend with. Beware the Vedauwoo 5.7 wide crack!

Note that the photo on page 88 of the guidebook has the climb incorrectly labelled- the 30 arrow points to Lower Progressive, where as HJ is the climb to the left. The obvious flake at the start is a fun, if moderate, boulder problem.

It has good protection and sustained climbing. We have now entered the realm of climbs that are a LOT harder if technique is not employed. If you have followed the progression described in Easy Jam, by now you should feel confident on this one.

Arm bars, heel-toe, foot torque-cams, knee wedges...use it all, and pause every so often to remind yourself that, indeed, this IS fun.

Exit right to a short downclimb.

Protection

Big stuff.

Photos

Mark P Thomas
Draper
 
Mark P Thomas   Draper
 
I thought Slit was harder.... Aug 13, 2017
Lead this today, whole thing had ice running down both sides. Nearly a rollerskate ascent, just no breaks for traction. Real fun for the grade! Mar 28, 2016
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
Hard and fun. Jul 3, 2013
jbarnum
Denver, CO
jbarnum   Denver, CO
Right side in the whole way. Four large cams will do it. 2-5s 2-6s. Super fun. May 23, 2013
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
If you really wanted to sew it up, you could bring 2x #6 camalot and a #5 camalot plus a #3 or #4 big bro. I placed my first big bro on this route, but it fell out. The 6 would have kept me off the deck though.

Traverse right to bolted anchors on Lower Progressive or continue to the top. May 21, 2012
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
This climb can be totally adequately protected with just two cams, one BD#5 and one #6. You will walk the 6, which is much easier than carrying two of them. Aug 10, 2011
kili
29 palms, ca
  5.7
kili   29 palms, ca
  5.7
The first time I did this, there was snow on the ground and we were wearing boots and leather gloves. I fell three times on the lead. I used two WC 5s and a WC6. I walked the 6 up the last five feet.

A really nice, beginning off-width. Nov 8, 2009
Funny how time fades your memory. I did this climb years ago and it lived up to its name. Hands were certainly jacked, quite pumpy and strenuous...going back on the 5th any takers?? Apr 27, 2007
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.7+
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.7+
Bring a #5 Camalot and just walk it with you. As to the grade, yes it is 5.7+. I could get up the thing, ergo 5.7+. Watching all the champions do this in big green Incredible Hulk gloves was quite the entertainment.

Also, I used 1 #4 Camalot, two #4.5, and a #5 I walked with me most of the way. You can get good placements for all of those, deep in the crack, but its easier to climb the thing if you're not that deep in. Sep 21, 2003
Great beginner Vedauwoo offwidth. This one is fun. Sep 15, 2003
Theo Barker
Loveland, CO
Theo Barker   Loveland, CO
We too were duped by the picture in the book and thought we were on Stinkzig. This is definitely a sandbag. I was able to protect it with a #11 Hex down low and #4 Camalot right before the bulge. That was all of the big gear that I had. A real grunt. Don't think I'd give it 3 stars and Stinkzig 1 star. I liked the upper pitch of Stinkzig better than this. Aug 5, 2002
I was duped. I though I was on Stinkzig right side start. I left a good hunk of the skin on my right side on this Vedawound classic looking for that "good pro". Bring any and every big piece of gear you can, I didn't trust any of my two placements (one large hex and a fully expanded Metolius#10, both to small). The second pitch is great. look for good rap anchors to the right and down 50 to 60 feet, two ropes, also not mentioned in the guide. Jul 8, 2002
I think this one must be in the running for hardest 5.7 pitch in the universe May 1, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
I was once told by a local that the guidebook had errors at the right hand side of this cliff, and thus this 5.9 route had been misprinted as a 5.7. That may or may not be true, but more or less, they said that the book had all of the grades listed one-to-the-left of the respective route. Can anyone confirm this? Apr 30, 2002
Or better yet, don your favorite pair of rollarskates and do it like they do at the "Fat Crack Festival." Best time with a pair of size 11 Rollerskates is 4 minutes flat. Feb 26, 2002
#2 and #3 Bigbros and a #5 Camalot will protect this one. It's quite a grunt, but short enough that it is still fun. Oct 9, 2001
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
This was my first attempted lead at Vedauwoo as a beginning leader. We thought we were doing the "recommened" 5.6 Stinkzig. Bring some big bro's in the 2-3 size. A #4 Camalot will not cut it, as we found out that day. Luckly for us, some locals helped us retrive our gear. The climbing is easy until you get to the under cling flake on the left face, only good technique will get you to the top from there. Sep 4, 2001