Type: Trad
FA: Adolescent Boy
Page Views: 4,873 total · 23/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Located left of Lower Progressive, this is a stiff little piece of offwidth climbing to contend with. Beware the Vedauwoo 5.7 wide crack!

Note that the photo on page 88 of the guidebook has the climb incorrectly labelled- the 30 arrow points to Lower Progressive, where as HJ is the climb to the left. The obvious flake at the start is a fun, if moderate, boulder problem.

It has good protection and sustained climbing. We have now entered the realm of climbs that are a LOT harder if technique is not employed. If you have followed the progression described in Easy Jam, by now you should feel confident on this one.

Arm bars, heel-toe, foot torque-cams, knee wedges...use it all, and pause every so often to remind yourself that, indeed, this IS fun.

Exit right to a short downclimb.

Protection

Big stuff.

Photos

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
This was my first attempted lead at Vedauwoo as a beginning leader. We thought we were doing the "recommened" 5.6 Stinkzig. Bring some big bro's in the 2-3 size. A #4 Camalot will not cut it, as we found out that day. Luckly for us, some locals helped us retrive our gear. The climbing is easy until you get to the under cling flake on the left face, only good technique will get you to the top from there. Sep 4, 2001
#2 and #3 Bigbros and a #5 Camalot will protect this one. It's quite a grunt, but short enough that it is still fun. Oct 9, 2001
Or better yet, don your favorite pair of rollarskates and do it like they do at the "Fat Crack Festival." Best time with a pair of size 11 Rollerskates is 4 minutes flat. Feb 26, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
I was once told by a local that the guidebook had errors at the right hand side of this cliff, and thus this 5.9 route had been misprinted as a 5.7. That may or may not be true, but more or less, they said that the book had all of the grades listed one-to-the-left of the respective route. Can anyone confirm this? Apr 30, 2002
I think this one must be in the running for hardest 5.7 pitch in the universe May 1, 2002
I was duped. I though I was on Stinkzig right side start. I left a good hunk of the skin on my right side on this Vedawound classic looking for that "good pro". Bring any and every big piece of gear you can, I didn't trust any of my two placements (one large hex and a fully expanded Metolius#10, both to small). The second pitch is great. look for good rap anchors to the right and down 50 to 60 feet, two ropes, also not mentioned in the guide. Jul 8, 2002
Theo Barker
Formerly Loveland, CO
Theo Barker   Formerly Loveland, CO
We too were duped by the picture in the book and thought we were on Stinkzig. This is definitely a sandbag. I was able to protect it with a #11 Hex down low and #4 Camalot right before the bulge. That was all of the big gear that I had. A real grunt. Don't think I'd give it 3 stars and Stinkzig 1 star. I liked the upper pitch of Stinkzig better than this. Aug 5, 2002
Great beginner Vedauwoo offwidth. This one is fun. Sep 15, 2003
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.7+
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.7+
Bring a #5 Camalot and just walk it with you. As to the grade, yes it is 5.7+. I could get up the thing, ergo 5.7+. Watching all the champions do this in big green Incredible Hulk gloves was quite the entertainment.

Also, I used 1 #4 Camalot, two #4.5, and a #5 I walked with me most of the way. You can get good placements for all of those, deep in the crack, but its easier to climb the thing if you're not that deep in. Sep 21, 2003
Funny how time fades your memory. I did this climb years ago and it lived up to its name. Hands were certainly jacked, quite pumpy and strenuous...going back on the 5th any takers?? Apr 27, 2007
kili
29 palms, ca
  5.7
kili   29 palms, ca
  5.7
The first time I did this, there was snow on the ground and we were wearing boots and leather gloves. I fell three times on the lead. I used two WC 5s and a WC6. I walked the 6 up the last five feet.

A really nice, beginning off-width. Nov 8, 2009
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
This climb can be totally adequately protected with just two cams, one BD#5 and one #6. You will walk the 6, which is much easier than carrying two of them. Aug 10, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
If you really wanted to sew it up, you could bring 2x #6 camalot and a #5 camalot plus a #3 or #4 big bro. I placed my first big bro on this route, but it fell out. The 6 would have kept me off the deck though.

Traverse right to bolted anchors on Lower Progressive or continue to the top. May 21, 2012
jbarnum
Denver, CO
jbarnum   Denver, CO
Right side in the whole way. Four large cams will do it. 2-5s 2-6s. Super fun. May 23, 2013
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
Hard and fun. Jul 3, 2013
Lead this today, whole thing had ice running down both sides. Nearly a rollerskate ascent, just no breaks for traction. Real fun for the grade! Mar 28, 2016
Mark P Thomas
Draper
 
Mark P Thomas   Draper
 
I thought Slit was harder.... Aug 13, 2017