Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Doug Cairns and Bob Scarpelli, 1978
Page Views: 4,967 total · 25/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Aug 16, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is located on Nautilus' "backside", just left of Ted's Trot and 40 feet right of Hairlip. This worthwhile route starts out as a wide layback, rounds a corner to a no hands bivy, and then gets down to business.

Good hand jams with interesting footwork take you to the big pod, which is better than it looks. Get good gear in and then do the crux. By this time, I was experiencing the route's namesake. But I seem to breath this hard on most Vedawoo routes.

Protection

Small assortment of nuts and cams from 3/4" to #5 Camalot. Multiples for hands. Chain anchor.
Sure I was tired but I got my ass handed to me on this one. I feel it to be harder than most of the other 11's at the Nautilus (most of which I have redpointed). Maybe I am suffering from a case of the wimpy's though. It is a great climb, tape then tape again and finally tape some more, you only need it for the last 5 feet. Sep 6, 2002
Andy Johnson  
 
Short and stout. This is one unitimidating route that may catch you by surprise. The crux is short, like two moves, but really tough. Very fun and worth the effort. I personally would not bother to bring anything bigger than a #3 cam. Also there are some really good shakeout holds in the pod. Use them wisely. You will be happy you did. Have fun. Mar 27, 2004
Case of the wimpy's? Is that like the Mondays? Jan 15, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Ah, a fellow fan of Office Space Jan 19, 2006
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Beautiful and fun moving. Do it at the end of the day and gawk at the gorgeous lichen all around it. Not as bad as some people here are making it out to be. One of the early lines here put up using Friends.

"This is one unitimidating route that may catch you by surprise."

Funny Story: A guy I know came to Vedauwoo knowing it's reputation for sandbags, lets call him Micah. Micah cruised this thing, reaching up to the final handjams about two feet above the pod, and cut his feet loose, hanging by one hand. He then began making monkey noises and outrageous claims that Vedauwoo 5.11's, or at least this one, were soft. After he was done making an idiot out of himself he put his feet back on and went to pull the next move, and he got shut the f&*% down, eventually falling off. I wasn't there, but when the story was recounted to me I laughed so hard I nearly died. To his credit, Micah has put down many a 5.11 crack and many a 5.12 sport climb, even a few 13's. Apr 10, 2006
Carolina
Farmington, NC
  5.10
Carolina   Farmington, NC
  5.10
Great climb. A must do in late afternoon when the suns shinning on it. A bit easier to me then other 11s around the Woo. Nov 8, 2010