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Routes in Nautilus

A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+
Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cupcake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In The Dark T V5 6C
In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky You T V6 7A
Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+
Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
New Mutant T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Octagon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pretty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Republic, The V10 7C+
Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Shotgun Willy V5 6C
Sitdown Seam V3 6A
Slab Stealer T V4 6B
Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soak'em In Cider V5 6C
Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sun Up To Sundown V6-7 7A+
TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempest V9 7C
Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twinkle Toes V2 5+
Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5
Unknown Mantle V2 5+
Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A
Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+
Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Ray Jardine, 1973?
Page Views: 5,798 total, 29/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The Left Tube is about as impossible-looking as 5.10 can get. While it is a bit of a struggle for those without the requisite mental deficiencies required of the genre, this exercise in wide crack climbing is worthy of your attention. With that said, feel free to just walk past it and continue on to Grand Traverse or Captain Nemo for some fun climbing...

Located on the far side of the Nautilus from the parking lot, this climb is the left of the two end cracks, an obvious, flared, bottomless monstrosity rising above the cute little subalpine wildflowers.

The beta: set good gear, believe in yourself, and go for it. Focus on knee-heel bars to overcome the bulge; above that the climbing eases, though many will find it strenuous to the top. Look around for anchors on top, they are not obvious. To descend climb boulders up to the climbers left to get to the anchors atop Middle Parallel Space- one rope off.

I would recommend against wearing shorts and a t-shirt on this one. I would also recommend against staring at this for too long before roping up and climbing it.

Protection

Larger pieces, include a #4 Camalot, long slings (one placement is deep in there before the crack pinches), kneepads, tape, and high top climbing shoes. Additional body armor is optional.

Per A-W: there is now a fixed, bolted anchor above.
A-W
A-W  
Now has bolts up top. Thanks to the equipper. Aug 25, 2017
Will Wright
Phoenix
  5.10
Will Wright   Phoenix
  5.10
Left side in, ran it out up top. If you can make it through the lower section clean, you shouldn't have trouble up there, as the angle declines and you are much more secure. Mar 2, 2016
Rob DeZonia
  5.10+
Rob DeZonia  
  5.10+
I went right side in with a 3 and 4 to get to the OW and a 5 and a 6 for the crux. You'll want some #4 bros for the top unless you feel like running it out. There is a flake on the right of the crack you could stab a yellow Alien up there on the upper OW as well, and yeah, don't waste your time reading Zach's ratings, gear beta, or really anything else about any route. Just enjoy the pretty pics. He has severe first-ascentionitis and has down rated most of the already notoriously sand-bagged routes in this area. Jul 14, 2014
Evan Martin
Laramie, WY
  5.10+
Evan Martin   Laramie, WY
  5.10+
I went right side in on this one. If you're not comfortable climbing easy offwidth without protection, bring a Bigbro for the top. I had two #5s and one #6 for this route, and that it all I was able to place. After exiting the roof, the crack quickly becomes too wide for #6s, although the climbing eases significantly. Highly recommended! Jun 21, 2014
This seems like such a natural left-side-in offwidth. I'm amazed that the pictures other than mine show right-side-in technique. Oh well! Aug 14, 2011
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Zach either not doing his research or outright sandbagging in one of his books? What are the odds!

Haven't done the route, but the lesson I learned from the same author's previous Vedauwoo and Devil's Tower books were to look at the pictures but ignore EVERY word except the route name and every number except the reference number on the photograph. Don't trust rack beta on even the classics, don't expect that 33m rappel to be any less than 60m. Jun 27, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
The new guide calls this 10a.... That's a mighty big sandbag, but then again I'm a beached whale when it comes to this wide stuff. If you're squeamish in offwidths, take one #1, two #5s and #6s, a single #3 Bigbro, and one or two #4 Bigbros. That'll sew it up well.

Oh, and 0.75-4 for an anchor. Jun 27, 2011
I'm not inclined to say this often about a Vedauwoo route, but this thing felt soft to me. I've heard it compared to Crack of Fear in Lumpy and I gotta say, Crack of Fear is leagues harder than this route. Anyway, about the gear, I had an extra #6 Friend and a #6 Camalot (new style, which is bigger than the #6 Friend), and both were too small for the last 25-30ft. The climbing is easier (5.8-5.9) and feels pretty secure but if you want protection, bring a blue Big Bro. Sep 7, 2009
Dan F  
Cool thanks for the info! Jul 15, 2009
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
The harder section down low can be protected with large cams pretty easily. The upper part is kind of a low angled chimney/flare sort of thing that is pretty wide, I'm not sure if a #6 Friend would protect it or not, but the climbing is pretty easy. Jul 14, 2009
Dan F  
Can this be climbed without Bigbros? Jul 14, 2009
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10+
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10+
The bolts for the left tube have been removed so you will need to set up an anchor at the top in a big crack (probably 3 to 4 Camalots). The anchor bolts on the right tube are still there for rapping back down. Jun 18, 2007
abc
 
abc  
 
I would bring two #5 and #6 Camalots.

I was able to face climb this to a great degree and avoid most of the true off-width moves. May 20, 2007
Annotations were supposed to appear with the Beta Photo above, and probably will. Prior to that, #1=start to Right Parallel Space and Vulture; #2=Left Torpedo Tube; #3=Right Torpedo Tube; #4=Gravity's Rainbow. And yes, there are fixed anchors/raps off the top (see Beta Photo). 2 raps (usually called the Middle Parallel Space raps) will get you to the ground in the best style. May 25, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
A #3 Big Bro protects the crux perfectly. There is a long runout on the upper half of this and the Right Torpedo, although it is easier climbing on both. I could not find the anchors up top. Any hints? Aug 25, 2002
Any additional gear beta for this route besides "big"... i.e. is #5 Camalot all that's needed? Are #3 or #4 Big Bros needed? Aug 12, 2002
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
Got on this crazy thing not too long ago. It was my first "real" offwidth lead. And i must say that it is way fun. cool tricks can be employed on the lower half while the crux and long fatty above are pretty much the real deal. not the horror show I expected, (wanted?). enjoy Aug 9, 2002