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Routes in Nautilus
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30 is the New 20 T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+ |
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Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Belly Flop T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C |
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Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+ |
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Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cornelius Direct Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cupcake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b V1 5 |
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Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deterioration / Unknown V1+ 5 |
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Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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E-D V7 7A+ |
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Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hand Jam Traverse aka V1 Traverse V1 5 |
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Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Heel to Toe V4- 6B |
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Hello Stupid T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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In The Dark T V2-3 5+ |
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In the Groove T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Infant Son T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lucky You T V6 7A |
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Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+ |
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Nemo's Nemesis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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New Mutant T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Octagon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pineapple Doesn't Go On Pizza T V3 6A |
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Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Practice Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pretty S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Republic, The V10 7C+ |
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Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4 |
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Shotgun Willy V8 7B |
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Slab and Grab V4 6B |
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Slab Stealer T V4 6B |
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Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Soak'em In Cider V5+ 6C+ |
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Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Sun Up To Sundown V6 7A |
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Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tempest V10 7C+ |
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Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5 |
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Unknown Mantle V2 5+ |
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Unnamed Corridor Chockstone 5.11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ |
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Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A |
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Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+ |
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Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 41.15478, -105.37467 |
| FA: | Paul Piana, Bob Cowan, Ilgner, ‘83 |
| Page Views: | 113 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Todd R on Sep 2, 2024 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form & USFS press releases
Details
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
See more USFS updates and press releases here:
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
See more USFS updates and press releases here:
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
Description
Solo the chimney start as for Whipping Boy, then reach left to get some pro in the horizontal. Make a horrendously awkward crawl left on deep jams (maybe you could crystal dance this section more eloquently?) until you can reach for some jams in the crack. Climb enjoyable steep thin hands for a few moves until another cruxy move right transitioning to the second crack. Finish up easier but sharp wide climbing.
This may deserve 2 stars by the MP over-starring standard, but 1 star is more like it. It’s actually pretty clean for a route that’s rarely climbed, but the start really detracts from the quality in my opinion.
Anyways, I am mostly just posting up, because I’m curious if others have climbed it and what their experience was.
Location
These are the right-leaning dual cracks just left of Whipping Boy. I’ll post a photo shortly maybe.
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