Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,489 total · 8/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 17, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

A relatively fun and varied wide crack.

Start as for Right Parallel Space, but stay right in the slot and head for the shallow, hanging chimney. Employ chimney and offwidth technique for about 20' feet until stemming is possible; this crux section is well protected using the hand and finger crack at the back of the wide crack. Stem for about twenty feet into an alcove where you trend left, passing an optional, uninspiring anchor and reach a low angle wide crack. This crack has plentiful face holds on its left side and lasts for about 25'; it would probably take a 4.5 Camalot which we did not have. When this last wide crack ends, face climb straight up to chain anchors at the top of the buttress; somewhere in this stretch it is nice to have a couple of cams 1" and smaller. Rope drag can be a problem if doing this as one pitch so sling accordingly.

Rappel as for Middle Parallel Space -- two raps the first about 40', the second _ 100'.

Protection

Nuts to 4.5 Camalot, slings

Photos

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Maybe it was a high-gravity day, but this is possibly the hardest ".10a" I've ever climbed. Anyone else feel this way? Jul 26, 2004
Rob, I agree completely Aug 22, 2004
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
 
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
 
I also agree - very hard for the grade. And be careful of all the bat shit. Apr 21, 2005
Did this climb a few weeks ago. There is a raptor [nest] equiped with raptors at the top of this thing. Probably should avoid this climb for awhile. I attempted leading this thing and fell out just after the squeeze section. Also couldnt get this thing when following so I would agree this is a hard 10a, Jul 14, 2005
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10a
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10a
I didn't think this was to bad, just climb the chimney left side in and start stemming as soon as possible when you get to the hand crack. Jun 18, 2007
Brian Weinstein
  5.10a
Brian Weinstein  
  5.10a
A demanding and physical route that is so typical of Vedauwoo, this pitch is earned...especially when you're face is in loads of guano. Jul 27, 2007
Mike D
Fort Collins, CO
Mike D   Fort Collins, CO
I've been wanting to get on this climb for a long whlie now but haven't because of all the bat shit. It looks great, but with so many other great climbs near-by it just is not worth it. If anyone has a gas powered pressure washer with a long hose, let me know if I can borrow it (only joking...well...errr...maybe!!) Dec 13, 2009
B.S. Luther
Yorba Linda, CA
 
B.S. Luther   Yorba Linda, CA
 
I agree with the previous posters.. bloody stout.

Also, I think the 2004 guidebook states to go right when the crack ends, I didn't go far that way as it involved slab moves on a sheet of bird feces, but going left worked well. Jul 2, 2015