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Routes in Nautilus

A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+
Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cupcake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In The Dark T V5 6C
In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky You T V6 7A
Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+
Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
New Mutant T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Octagon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pretty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Republic, The V10 7C+
Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Shotgun Willy V5 6C
Sitdown Seam V3 6A
Slab Stealer T V4 6B
Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soak'em In Cider V5 6C
Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sun Up To Sundown V6-7 7A+
TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempest V9 7C
Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twinkle Toes V2 5+
Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5
Unknown Mantle V2 5+
Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A
Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+
Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,049 total, 15/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Aug 16, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

3 pitch 5.6 starting in a hideous looking chimney. The first pitch is awkward, hard to protect, and unpleasant. The rest of the route is quite good, with some nice hands and fingers and an interesting step across to start the second pitch. The Vedauwoo guidebook highly recommends it, probably as a sandbag.

Protection

Standard rack.
two chains
Fucken Zion
  5.6
two chains   Fucken Zion
  5.6
If you bitch about the grade and or this climb... you're a bitch.... This climb is RADICAL! What a summit! Make sure you do the leap of faith, the pancake slab, and the awesome free hanging rap!!! Classic, classic, classic!!! It's a 5.6, because the chimney pitch can be lead on all NUTs!!! DMM offsets work wonders. Go do this route! Aug 24, 2016
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Surprised to see that this route gets so few stars and negative comments. Maybe that's just blue-collar Vedauwoo work effort skewing the feedback. I thought it was a lot of fun. My GF lead from the handcrack to the top in one pitch, crushed it, and had a blast. Worthwhile route.

Walk off north looking for two bolts. Single 60 rap back to the ground just North of where you started. May 21, 2012
colin tuck
Moab
 
colin tuck   Moab
 
If you know how to chimney (getting in the chimney, and climbing out around the constriction) this is a really fun 5.7. Call it 5.6 if you'd like. The first pitch is super well protected even if you don't bring any big gear, thanks to the finger crack in the chimney. The second pitch is mellow hand and fist jamming. There is no third pitch unless you are climbing with a thirty meter rope. May 18, 2009
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
I concur with John Keller's commentary at the top of this thread...the first pitch is remarkably awkward even by Vedauwoo standards. I got to the crux, hung for a while, and then bailed, thinking that I was supposed to go up through the chimney. The chimney can be climbed only by 2-dimensional humans.

It's worth venturing into the chimney to place a 0.5 Cam or green Alien in the crack; this will give some protection to the crux move, which is done outside the chimney with wierd stems and crimpers. After all this effort, one is rewarded with an unpleasant squeeze/thrash to the base of the handcrack, which looks much more enjoyable. By most non-Voo standards the crux would go at 5.8. I rate it 5.FU May 12, 2008
Sagar Gondalia
Golden
  5.6
Sagar Gondalia   Golden
  5.6
I agree with Shanna. The chimney is much easier if you go right side in, get in deep to place some good pro and make 1 or 2 moves to get over the really tight spot. These are the only 5.7 moves on the climb. The rest is absolutely 5.6 or easier. Jun 19, 2007
Shanna
 
Shanna  
 
This is a great skinny person climb. I went deep in the chimney and placed solid gear in the finger crack, then moved back out for a few moves on some decent face holds. 2 stars and fun. May 23, 2007
Tyson S Arp  
 
Brian, glad to see I'm not the only one that doesn't despise this climb! My wife and I have climbed this route multiple times and always had fun doing it--although I see she only gave it one star! Since then she has actually led the climb and I think she's a bit more fond of it now. And, Theo, I have to agree--one of the reasons I like this route is because of the variety it offers. We've got some photos and a brief story at our website TeamArp.com. Check out this page and also this one. Feb 15, 2007
Brian Story
  5.7
Brian Story  
  5.7
In my opinion, this is a classic moderate Vedauwoo adventure climb. I first attempted this as a rope solo in December and turned back at the squeeze chimney, cold and demoralized. The squeeze chimney is tricky but can be reasonably climbed at least 3 different ways with minimal thrutching. It is probalby harder than 5.6. A #4 Camalot can be placed way back in the chimney before bypassing the tight squeeze, making the chimney reasonably well protected. The upper "pitches" are fun. This climb can easily be done as one pitch, especially if you scramble to the base of the squeeze before belaying. Nov 14, 2006
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.6
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.6
This is kind of an awful pitch but sort of amusing for that reason. [It was a] little insecure at times. I remember a committing transition to the “handcrack”. I accidentally attained a full-body jam (got stuck) where the chimney narrows. It would have been an awesome rest had I been able to breathe. Then, the parabolic slab is always fun. Aug 9, 2006
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.7
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.7
I did this with my wife last year. Thinking I needed larger gear, I left the nuts and small cams at the base. Big mistake. There is a nice smaller crack that runs through the back of the squeeze chimney that takes good gear. The crux of the route is definitely on the first pitch where you make an awkward move out of and then back into the chimney where the crack bluges inward. We did the whole route in two pitches, linking the second pitch with the third. It's easily done if you don't mind a little rope drag. Jun 29, 2006
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
5.7
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
5.7
On the first pitch, I got decent pro in; but the main issue was getting my head through the upper part of the chimney. I could squeeze my head through going up, but couldn't get it back down without major coaxing. I thought for sure that if I fell in the middle of the move I would break my neck. Needless to say, I bagged it. I guess some heads are bigger than others! Aug 22, 2005
I've done this route a couple of times and would go with a 5.7- rating. The first pitch, being awkward to shove yourself in the chimney, can easily be done by frictioning up the outside. This will definitely limit gear and it'd be runout, but the angle is very positive and it'll feel much easier then "cold fingers" on fall wall. This is an exciting route that deserves two stars. Oct 25, 2003
Darin Lang
  5.7
Darin Lang  
  5.7
Much better to link the first two pitches - that way whoever leads the chimney (one move that is awkward and harder than 5.6 on lead due to one's desire to place protection), gets the short handcrack payoff.

1.75 stars. There are so many good routes at Vedauwoo, though.

It is easy to keep the grade at 5.6 as a follower, or if you don't mind running it out past the crux. 5.7 for the awkward squeeze to get some gear, and then move to regain the outside of the crack/chimney. Jun 16, 2003

 
GREAT! Fun Offwidth, but much harder than a non-offwidth 7 if your not and experienced offwidth climber - Intimidating Aug 28, 2002

 
only reason to climb this route is for the scary start and going off the Parabolic Slab! (but there are other - more fun ways to get there - Mother#1) Aug 28, 2002
Theo Barker
Loveland, CO
 
Theo Barker   Loveland, CO
 
Also, it appears from the route description that the submitter did the offwidth to the right of the chimney, Handjacker, as the first pitch, as many people have done due to the error on the photo in "Heel & Toe". The chimney is a little bit of a struggle, but not too bad. It is directly below the left-facing dihedral that starts the second pitch. There are finger cracks on the left inside the chimney that can be used for pro. You won't need much since the first pitch is so short. Aug 27, 2002
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
 
I didn't do a great job on this description - sorry. It definitely isn't a sport route.

I will defend the 1 star rating. I really thought the first pitch was the worst of the many pitches I've done at Vedauwoo, the others were short, and I also really didn't like the guano infested belay.

Ted's Trot is also on the Nautilus and has similar but far superior climbing. It is definitely a much better route thank Stinkzig, but can't merit three stars when compared to Edwards Crack, Climb and Punishment, and other great climbs here. Aug 5, 2002
Theo Barker
Loveland, CO
 
Theo Barker   Loveland, CO
 
I would give this more stars than Handjacker. You have to do chimney, hand crack, fist crack, all on the same climb. Aug 5, 2002
Theo Barker
Loveland, CO
 
Theo Barker   Loveland, CO
 
BTW, this is mis-classified as a sport route. There are no bolts within 50 yards of this route! You need a standard rack (up to #3 Camalot, no real big stuff needed) if you protect the lower pitch using the finger cracks on the left side of the chimney. Aug 5, 2002
Theo Barker
Loveland, CO
 
Theo Barker   Loveland, CO
 
We got duped by the incorrect picture in the book also, so we climbed Handjacker as the first pitch. After rapping off and looking at the book again, we discovered our error, so climbed the first pitch of Stinkzig and crawled around the shelf to the right and downclimbed the chimney to the right of the rap anchors. I would say that Handjacker is definitely harder than the first pitch of Stinkzig. I was able to protect that first pitch with a couple of TCU's stuck in cracks on the left side of the chimney. In Vedauwoo offwidth & chimneys, we think that the ratings are a bit stiff. Aug 5, 2002
Hey Jesse,

The photo in the Heel and Toe book has a mistake. Stinkzig is the left of the two offwidths. The right hand one is HandJacker (7+) and is much nicer than Stinkzig. See the HandJacker route description on this site. My comments above refer to Stinkzig. Sep 18, 2001
I climbed the recommended right chimney, and also felt it was harder than 5.6, but still felt it was enjoyable, no matter the grade. Protection is an issue. Once I could place my #4 I walked it with me for a bodylength before tackling the exit moves. I also understand the left chimney is easier and more protectable. The route deserves more than one star in my book. Sep 17, 2001
The difficulties of this climb caused my friends and I to develop a new rating system. We call it 'FMA' for any climb that feels at least two grades harder than the book indicates. After three or four people of our group had backed off the 'unpleasant' first pitch, I managed it but was desperate the whole time screeming out at one point "F__cking 5.6 My Ass!!" Maybe I'm just bad at awkward offwidth unprotected chimnies. Aug 29, 2001