Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,524 total · 12/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 17, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


33 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Left Hand climbs the left side of the Practice Slab. "Heel and Toe" says that this is another bolted route up the slab, but when I climbed it in Nov '99, all the bolts were gone (or maybe just the hangers - can't remember which). In any event, this climb can be top-roped from the anchors above Etude For The Right Hand.

Protection

A couple of biners (2-bolt chain anchor on top of slab).

Photos

- No Photos -
I was here a couple of weeks ago. I took a look, and I can't even tell if there's been bolts installed period. Fun climb though. If you feel comfortable with the right side, definitely try this (enter the slab from the boulder you use to get up on the relatively flat "lunch time" rock, not from the right). Good practice for Drop Zone on the fall wall. May 15, 2003
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
Yep. I couldn't find any evidence of bolts there either. I just toproped it after having led Cornelious on the opposite side of the formation. There is good pro in that crack and from the top its an easy walk to the anchors. Jun 7, 2006
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
The only evidence I could find of bolts was some empty hangers on the rock. Somebody must have removed the bolts. Jul 19, 2006
JNE
JNE  
If the route is still in the condition it was in last year, then the bolts are there but the hangers are gone. There are only two or three bolts. If you want to lead it you can take a nut and slide the actual nut down it's cable, exposing a loop of cable above the nut. Hook the bolt with this loop of cable and then slide the nut up snug against the bolt. A little sketchy but it does work, and I do recommend you try this a few times on the ground before venturing up. Slide the nuts so they are ready to "place" before leaving the ground. A better option for a climb to lead at a similar grade that requires only draws would be Southwest Friction on Poland Hill. Jul 19, 2006
BobSeth  
Someone bolted this route. It's scheduled to be chopped. It has been accepted as a TR and doesn't need some punk wannabe never will be bolting it. Jul 9, 2012
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
 
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
 
Starting move is way harder than 5.5 - about UK 5b with potential to clout your knees as you ungracefully slip off. The local equivalent of Verandah Buttress? Oct 16, 2013
Will Vazquez
Grand Junction
 
Will Vazquez   Grand Junction
 
Bolts are still there as of August 2014.

Rappelled from the potato chip and used this to get the rest of the way down. There is an awkward down-climb and reach to get to the anchors, I wouldn't want to do it unprotected. Sep 3, 2014
CO_Michael
  5.5
CO_Michael  
  5.5
All the bolts are there and stamped ASCA. Jun 30, 2015
I'm not too familiar with UK grades, but according to the conversion chart, 5B can range from YDS 10a to 10d. The start is not 5.10. I agree it feels a little stiff at first, but the fingers are there and you have to trust your feet on the small crystals, which admittedly is hard to do when you're not used to Vedauwoo.

However, I felt that Etude for the Right Hand was significantly easier than this one from start to finish, but I would grade Right Hand down instead of grading Left Hand up.

The bolts were there in September 2016. Oct 20, 2016