Type: Trad
FA: Jack Sprat
Page Views: 2,454 total · 24/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Just right of Mother #1 is a splitter hand crack that fades into a seemingly perfect, finger crack before ending completely at a horizontal seam. Scramble to the base of the hand crack and enjoy 35 feet of sinker hand jams before arriving at the "finger crack." Notice now that this is not a finger crack at all but instead is a flared seam that will only accept the smallest wires on your rack. Place a piece, or two or three, then climb a scary and technical sequence on pebbles and crystals. Plug your thank-God piece in at the horizontal break then traverse left along the break and link into the top of Mother #1. A beautiful line and well worth the time if your RPs made it into the pack with all those #5s.

Protection

RPs to #3 Camalot. Not sure that this one deserves a safety rating, but be prepared to pull the crux above the smallest gear you brought.

Photos

slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Great route for sure. Gear is good if you broght the right stuff, but be prepared to tinker. Jun 10, 2010
Ryan Arnold
  5.11a PG13
Ryan Arnold  
  5.11a PG13
This can be a dangerous lead if, like me, you don't bring enough small cams. Purple Metolius and smaller are key for the final seam. There were far fewer spots for brassies than I was hoping for. Also, the last horizontal is not the hand crack I was expecting; have small finger-sized cams and some slings so you can make that (easy?) traverse safely. Jun 25, 2017
Mitch Friedeman
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Mitch Friedeman   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
This would be rated G in Eldo. Just bring the RPs, and you're good. Jul 27, 2018