Type: Trad
FA: Robert Warren, Pete Williams, 1981. Jack Sprat?
Page Views: 3,092 total · 24/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Description

Just right of Mother #1 is a splitter hand crack that fades into a seemingly perfect, finger crack before ending completely at a horizontal seam. Scramble to the base of the hand crack and enjoy 35 feet of sinker hand jams before arriving at the "finger crack." Notice now that this is not a finger crack at all but instead is a flared seam that will only accept the smallest wires on your rack. Place a piece, or two or three, then climb a scary and technical sequence on pebbles and crystals. Plug your thank-God piece in at the horizontal break then traverse left along the break and link into the top of Mother #1. A beautiful line and well worth the time if your RPs made it into the pack with all those #5s.

Protection

RPs to #3 Camalot. Not sure that this one deserves a safety rating, but be prepared to pull the crux above the smallest gear you brought.

Photos