Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: John Garson, 1975
Page Views: 2,749 total · 18/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This has varied climbing in a deep flare. It starts out offwidth, then thins to hands at the overhanging crux. It is great stemming practice. The rock is a little rough, which along with the flare makes placing protection somewhat strenuous. In all, it is a fun climb.

Location

This is on the Southeast corner of Ted's Trot Block. It is right of The Central Scrutinizer, left of Bombay. The dihedral in which this climb is located generally faces south.

Protection

Stoppers to #4 Camalot. #5 and #6 Camalots are nice but not required. One of each should be enough. Be prepared to fight with crystals and a flared crack when trying to place gear. Belaying from the rappel bolts on top of the block prevents the rope from jamming in the bulge. Otherwise, you could build an anchor with hand-sized cams.

Addendum

This route submission name was changed to orphaned due to the nature of the internet and links it created.

Photos