Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: John Garson, 1975
Page Views: 2,365 total · 18/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This has varied climbing in a deep flare. It starts out offwidth, then thins to hands at the overhanging crux. It is great stemming practice. The rock is a little rough, which along with the flare makes placing protection somewhat strenuous. In all, it is a fun climb.

Location

This is on the Southeast corner of Ted's Trot Block. It is right of The Central Scrutinizer, left of Bombay. The dihedral in which this climb is located generally faces south.

Protection

Stoppers to #4 Camalot. #5 and #6 Camalots are nice but not required. One of each should be enough. Be prepared to fight with crystals and a flared crack when trying to place gear. Belaying from the rappel bolts on top of the block prevents the rope from jamming in the bulge. Otherwise, you could build an anchor with hand-sized cams.

Addendum

This route submission name was changed to orphaned due to the nature of the internet and links it created.

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I thought this route was burly...and excellent! Varied climbing, insecure, and very well-protected. While it looks like it requires a #5 or #6 from the ground, I found two #4s protected it (although I did use a #5 in the anchor). Jun 14, 2011
slim

  5.10b/c
slim    
  5.10b/c
Even for Vedauwoo, I remember this one being pretty hard for the grade. Technical in a really strange sort of way. Some of the gear is finicky too, due to the crystals/bottomed out crack. Jun 14, 2011
Deke Doty
Fort Collins, CO
Deke Doty   Fort Collins, CO
There is now a two bolt anchor. Aug 29, 2011
Dave Alie
Golden, CO
Dave Alie   Golden, CO
For what it's worth, I also felt that this was stiff for 10a even by Vedauwoo standards. For all my struggling, however, I managed to send first try, so I don't think it's outrageously sandbagged. In regards to the off-width start, the crack in the recess starts a bit wide, but you can stem and chimney your way through a series of good stances which make bringing really wide gear unnecessary. Leave the #6 on the ground. +1 for Slim's comment about somewhat wonky gear. Good placements can be had before entering the crux, take the time to place a good piece then fire the last bit to the chains. Excellent pitch, though. Easier than it looks from the ground. Sep 27, 2013
bart cubrich 1
  5.10a
bart cubrich 1  
  5.10a
I found this to be easier than Friday the 13th pitch one, but still a hard 10a. An absolute gem. With the anchors on top now, this route can be safely lead with one #4 and a doubles through #2. May 29, 2014
My recommended rack (C4 sizes) - #2, #3, #4, #0.75, purple Link Cam, blue Totem, and two quickdraws for the rap anchors. Oct 25, 2018