Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Chick Holtkamp and Bob Yoho, Steve Matous & Doug Cairns, 1975?
Page Views: 5,991 total · 29/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 15, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


107 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This amazing line is the first right of Friday the 13th on the Nautilus. The first pitch climbs fingerlocks, thin hands and lay-aways to a two bolt anchor at about 50 feet. The second pitch climbs the burly mostly fist crack to a fixed anchor at a horizontal crack below a capping roof. One can rappel here if the anchor is deemed suitable, move left to Friday the 13th or move right to Middle Parallel Space. The pitches can easily be combined (recommended) to entertain full enjoyment.

Protection

A standard rack including small camming devices (#1 to #2 Friends) for the fist pitch and larger camming devices for the upper pitch (up to #4 Camalot). At least double cams in the #1 to #3 Camalot sizes are/were useful in the sustained upper crack for those near their limit, myself included.

Photos

Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
The anchors at the top of pitch 2 was suitable to lower off to the two bolt belay atop pitch 1. Aug 25, 2002
Bob Rotert
  5.11-
Bob Rotert  
  5.11-
Great route, probably harder during the first ascent as the rock has sinced cleaned up from folks climbing it. I find the 11b rating off compared to some other 11b Veedauwoo climbs. Example would be if you compare this to one if it's neighbor climbs, Ghost Dance which is also rated 11b. I think you will find Ghost Dance substantailly harder.. Now if one and which one should have it's rating changed I will leave open to comment.

If you watch the rope drag you can lead this thing in one pitch to the top. Need some slings and a long sling for when you move left at the top of the crack. Jul 26, 2004
willem  
The anchor atop P2 is 2 good nuts and an old punded angle, all lovingly equalized with a single link. Bring some webbing if ya' like. Or perhaps a drill and bolts? Sep 15, 2004
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
I used to think the grade on this was a bit soft, then last summer I got on it and almost got my ass handed to me on a platter. The upper half is burly and beautiful. Apr 15, 2005
Truly a classic Voo crack. Sadly the first pitch is over rated, but the second is right on. With its big moves and tricky stems, it holds the grade. As for the anchors, the webbing is a little scary, oh well. Jun 10, 2006
Brian Weinstein
  5.11b
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11b
Pitch 2 is a classic, must-do at the grade. Well worth the technical first half. Apr 23, 2007
abc
abc  
The upper pitch can be stemmed and climbed without a single jam, which feels much less burly. May 20, 2007
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
Did the first pitch last night and set up a TR for some friends. Technical and sequency 5.10. The 2nd pitch looks amazing!! Planning to go back and get on it soon... Jun 14, 2007
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
So, why are there nice anchors 1/2 way up the pitch and tat at the end? Sep 30, 2007
Greg Smith
Canon City, CO
Greg Smith   Canon City, CO
The first ascent was done by Chick Holtkamp. Apr 1, 2008
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
First Ascent was Chick Holtkamp and Bob Yoho, Chick led it first. Jun 30, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11b
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11b
This route is amazing, the best I have climbed at the grade in Vedauwoo. Definitely combine both pitches. The first pitch if good but the second pitch is the icing on the cake. I found the second pitch to be mostly good hands which is a #2 Camalot for me. Jul 21, 2008
Doug Cairns and I did what we thought to be the FA summer of 1975, named for the song of the same name done by Hot Tuna in the '70s. Oct 12, 2010
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
 
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
 
I found second pitch best protectable with #3 cams as I leapfrogged my only 3 for a good half of it. Climbing is never the less mostly #2 hands. Aug 3, 2011
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Like a harder version of Outer Limits in Yosemite. Sep 3, 2012
cstebbins024
Laramie, WY
  5.11a
cstebbins024   Laramie, WY
  5.11a
The anchor, made of webbing, at the top of the second pitch has been replaced with a stainless steel Fixe anchor. Sep 8, 2014
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
One of the best routes I've done at Vedauwoo and earns 11- when linked as one pitch. The first pitch is pumpy and technical, and the second is much more physical and awkward than it appears at first glance. I recommend 1 each of C4 #2-4 for the second pitch, although the #4 is optional and can be dumped off quickly. I got pumped on the first pitch and stayed ridiculously pumped until the anchors. Good thing the jams were good hands and cups. Jul 27, 2015
Katie Foster
Laramie, Wy
  5.11-
Katie Foster   Laramie, Wy
  5.11-
This feels easier than any other 11s I have done in the area, though it's only the 2nd that I've personally led it. I had to borrow a couple extra #3s for the 2nd pitch to make it comfortable but found the overhung fist jamming to be about as fun as it gets. Oct 19, 2015
A-W
 
A-W  
 
Quite soft for 5.11 but a nice climb. Not a big fan of the vertically stacked bolted anchor at the top. I agree with it in theory, but it ended up being not fully redundant and a bit of a cluster. Same kind of anchor on Nemo's first pitch. Nov 6, 2015
khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
A 60m gets you down from P2's anchors. Jun 19, 2016
I didn't find a need for #4. Bring small stuff for the start of P1, and pay attention to face holds - there's a crucial flake out right which I had to use since the crack was off-fingers for me. Oct 25, 2018