Type: Trad, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 263 total · 2/month
Shared By: Sean Dunlop on May 19, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Climb a 5.7 handcrack in a slot to a shelf and belay (30 ft). Get back into the crack on the left (crux) and continue on sustained jamming and stemming to the top. The crux is height dependent (9+ for those under 5'4" and 7+ for those over 6'3").

Location

This is on the Northwest Face of the Nautilus (right end). It can be accessed by hiking north along the rock past the climbs Baldwin's Chimney and Humper.

Protection

Standard rack, up to a 3 possibly a 4 Camalot.

Photos

Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.9-
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.9-
A couple or more #3s, #3.5s will make this shorty crack pure joy. Didn't jam the left (and infinitely more protect-able) crack so much as stemmed between it and the less friendly crack on the right.

Guidebook and Mountain Project BOTH offer this "height dependent" beta BS without any explanation why. Here's why: the opening move at the midway shelf (after the initial 5.7 crack) to acquire the "duel" cracks would be mighty exciting for someone with short legs. It's a full-on opposing arms stretch between two walls, pump up to a Kungfu legs-horizontal stem (make sure you hands-in-prayer-position for a quiet moment) and only then start cramming and jamming the duel cracks. It's an effing heart stopper (and crotch ripper) unless you're over 5'10". Wear your best Chuck Norris pants and an extra pair of boxers.

ALSO: nevermind what the book says about belaying again after the first 30ft crack; there's simply no reason for it. Jam a #3.5 (or a #4 or whatever) high and left with a single runner and there's zero rope drag.

Have fun! A good one to get on if there's a conga line on Mother. Not as hard as all that.... Jul 27, 2009
RyanO
sunshine
 
RyanO   sunshine
 
Yeah, definitely a height dependent crux. At 5'6", it felt more like 11a than 9+... easily aided though, if you want to have a good time :) Otherwise a fantastic line, the belay at 30 feet was actually really nice and a good place to get out of the sun. Aug 1, 2011
Jonathan S
Golden, CO
5.9+ PG13
Jonathan S   Golden, CO
5.9+ PG13
Getting off the ledge for the second part is really hard and poorly protected. I ended up doing a high-step stem without using either crack until I got both feet up, hoping I didn't fall back in the cracks on the ledge. Jun 23, 2018