Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 293 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is the right-facing corner to the left of Upper Slot. The crux is moving off the ledge: there are good jams (and gear), but it's quite strenuous to get going. Once you get going, look to the right for some useful face holds for your right foot. Those with long legs can stem over to the right to a seam after a few moves to get a rest and take the edge off a bit. The crack gradually widens and the difficulty eases off considerably.

Location

This route is the corner to the left of Upper Slot. The route links very nicely with Lower Slot. Use the bolted rappel anchor to rap off the backside of the formation. Use one of several options to downclimb from there.

Protection

Standard rack. A couple of bigger pieces (#5, #6 Camalot) will be useful as the crack widens towards the top. A bolted rappel anchor can be used for a belay at the top. Although my partner didn't build a gear anchor, it looks like there are options if the bolted anchor is otherwise occupied.

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Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
This is a quality splitter with overhanging hand jams and poor feet to start. Then up the wide crack with arm bars and face climbing to a squeeze chimney, which I had difficulty getting through. Best to belay off the bolts. Jul 14, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.10b
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.10b
The feet are really only terrible if you're using a different (read: harder) sequence. Think about this one a bit before you leave the ledge. The hand jams are really good, so there's your hint. I once watched Craig Luebben flail, just completely thrutch trying to get off the ground on this one on account of a too-tight toprope and an inclination to use the obvious beta. So, think it through before you do it. Sep 19, 2009